2: BASIC COMMANDS

BEFORE YOU TEACH YOUR DOG HOW TO DO LAUNDRY AND MAKE YOUR LUNCH FOR THE WORKDAY, YOU MUST MAKE SURE YOU CAN GET HIS ATTENTION. OTHERWISE HE’LL BE THE ONE TEACHING YOU THE TRICKS! FOR EXAMPLE, HAVE YOU EVER SEEN THE OWNER CHASING THE DOG ROUTINE? OR OWNERS THAT ARE BEING TAKEN FOR A WALK BY THEIR DOGS? IT’S HYSTERICAL, BUT VERY UNSAFE. DON’T BE SACRED: WE’RE NOT GOING FOR SHOW RING OBEDIENCE TRAINING, JUST THE BASICS, BOILED DOWN TO SEVEN FOUNDTATION COMMANDS I CALL THE MAGIC SEVEN, WHICH YOU CAN FIND IN CHAPTER TWO.

INSTEAD OF TRAINGING YOUR DOG FOR FIFTEEN TO THIRTHY MINUTES LIKE SOME DOG TRAINERS HAVE YOU DO. I FIND THAT A BLOCK OF TIME LIKE THAT CAN SOMETIMES BE HARD TO FIND WHEN YOU’RE WORKING DURING THE DAY AND WITH HOW MUCH I TRAVEL. SO WHAT I TRY TO DO IS USE THE SEVEN BASIC COMMANDS CONVERSATIONALLY THROUGHOUT THE DAY. SO BEFORE A HUG OR TREATS I SAY “SIT” WHEN MY DOG’S UNDER FOOT, I SAY “EXCUSE ME.” WHEN I WANT MY DOG TO FOLLOW ME I SAY “LET’S GO.” AND TO REPRIMAND FOR THE NAUGHTY STUFF OF COURSE IT’S “NO.” OR A LOUD “AWCK.” WHATEVER YOU WANT TO USE FOR THE, YOU’RE DOING SOMETHING WRONG WORD OR SOUND. SEE HOW EASY TRAINING IS? WITHOUT TAKING TIME OUT OF OUR NOW BUSY DAYS, YOU CAN TEACH YOUR DOG ON THE GO WITH THE MAGIC SEVEN.

TO BE A FAIR AND FUN TEACHER, YOU NEED TO UNDERSTAND YOUR DOG’S PERSONALITY AND MASTER “DOGLISH,” YOUR DOG’S NATIVE LANGUAGE. UNTIL YOU LEARN TO THINK WITH AND NOT AGAINST YOUR DOG, YOU CAN’T TEACH HIM PROPERLY. IT’S IMPOSSIBLE FOR YOUR DOG TO BE HUMAN, NO MATTER HOW MUCH YOU WORK TOGETHER. SO HOW DO YOU TALK TO A DOG? IT’S QUITE AN ADVENTURE!!

IF YOUR DOG LOOKS TO YOU WITH EYES THAT ARE TRUSTING AND EAGER, YOU’RE ON THE RIGHT TRACK. IF YOU CAN’T GET A BLINK FROM YOUR DOG, YOU’LL HAVE TO DO SOME PRELIMINARY “REPECT” WORK, AS OUTLINED IN THIS CHAPTER. BUT REMEMBER THE MORE YOU LOOK AT YOUR DOG THE LESS THEY’LL LOOK TO YOU. EYE CONTACT FOR A DOG IS A TRUSTING THING. IN THE WILD AND FOR PROTECTION OF THEMSELVES THEY’RE NATURAL INSTINCT IS TO KEEP EYE CONTACT AND WHOEVER BREAKS THAT CONTACT IS THE ONE THAT SUBMITTS. NOW THAT DOES NOT MEAN TO STARE AT YOUR DOG UNTIL HE LOOKS AWAY, THAT IS ONE OF THE WORST THINGS YOU CAN DO AND COULD BE ONE OF THE LAST THINGS YOU EVER DO DEPENDING ON THE NATURAL PREY DRIVE YOUR DOG HAS. YOU WANT YOUR DOG TO GLANCE AT YOU AND FOR YOU TO GLANCE AT THE DOG. NEVER STARE INTO YOUR DOG’S EYES FOR MORE THAN 10 SECONDS AT A TIME.

TRAINING CALLS FOR A RELAXED AND PATIENT BODY POSTURE. I CALL IT THE PEACOCK POSITION: STAND UPRIGHT AND PROUD. IF YOU HUNCH OVER OR GET FRUSTRATED, YOUR DOG WILL THINK SOMETHING IS DISTRESSING IN THE EINVIRONMENT, NOT IN THEIR BEHAVIOR. BECAUSE DGOS CAN’T REASON THAT WAY, AN ANGRY REACTION BY YOU WILL ONLY CAUSE HESITATION IN YOUR DOG.

TONE IS A HUGE PART OF THE TRAINING PROCESS. IF YOU YELL AT YOUR DOG YOU EITHER FREAK HIM OUT OR LOOK LIKE A FOOL, DEPENDING ON YOUT DOG’S PERSONALITY PROFILE. IF YOU SPEAK SWEETLY, YOU ENCOURAGE PLAYFULNESS.

WHEN GIVING COMMANDS, USE A CLEAR, DIRECT, AND NONTHREATENING TONE. THINK OF IT AS A “SET THE TABLE“ TONE. USE YOUR REGULARE VOICE WITH AN OUNCE OF OVER-ENUNCIATION. AFTER YOUR DOG LEARNS A PARTICULAR BEHAVIOR, YOU CAN WHISPER COMANDS OR EVEN JUST USE SIGN LANGUAGE FOR THE COMMANDS. BUT IN THE BEGINNING, SPEAK CLEARLY. SOME WORDS MAY SOUNDS LIKE ONE ANOTHER. ONE OF MY HARDEST THINGS WAS WITH MY GERMAN SHEPHERDS NAME, “KENO,” IT’S WAS PRETTY HARD AT THE BEGINNING BECAUSE IT SOUNDED A LOT LIKE I WAS EITHER SAYING HIS NAME OR I WAS SAYING NO. I HAD TO MAKE IT VERY CLEAR WHEN I WAS ADDING THE KE- TO THE NO. SO WATCH WHAT YOU’RE SAYING AND TRY TO THINK LIKE A DOG THAT HEARS US IN A FORGIEN LANGUAGE.

ATTITUDE IS EVERYTHING. IF YOUR DOG THINKS YOU’RE COOL, YOU CAN TEACH HIM ANYTHING HE’S PHYSICALLY CAPABLE OF LEARNING. BY NATURE, DOGS RELATE TO A HIERACHICAL SYSTEM WHERE ONE LEADER RULES OVER THE REST.

WHAT DETERMINES WHO’S THE BOSS? IT’S NOT INDIVIDUAL FIGHTING POWER BUT MENTAL STAMINA. LEADERS KEEP THEIR HEADS WHILE OTHERS ALL ABOUT THEM ARE UNNERVED. WHEN THERE IS CONFUSION, ALL LOOK TO THE LEADER FOR STABILITY. THE LEADER DIRECTS, STRUCTURES, AND REASSURES. FOR ANY TYPE OF TRAINING TO BE EFFECTIVE, YOU NEED TO ASSUME THE ROLL OF LEADER.

THIS PART IS FOR PEOPLE WHO NEED AN OVERVIEW ON THE BASICS. COLLARS, HARNESSES, AND LEASHES COME IN A VARIETY OF STYLES SUITABLE TO THER SITAUTION AT HAND.

THESE COLLARS ARE A STAPLE. THEY FIT LIKE A BELT AROUND YOUR DOG’S NECK AND CARRY HIS RABIES, LICENSE, AND NAME TAGS. SOME DOGS (LIKE MY HOPE) BEHAVE JUST FINE IN A BUCKLE COLLAR. SIMPLE PRAISE AND ENCOURAGEMENT FOR STAYING AT YOUR SIDE, AND A DISCOURAGING PULL WHEN THEY FORAGE AHEAD, CAN BE ENOUGH TO PERSUADE YOUR DOGS TO HANG WITH YOU. TRY THIS BASIC TRAINING AND SEE IF IT WORKS.

IF YOUR DOG DRAGS YOU ALONG. CHOKING ALL THE WAY, STOP IN YOUR TRACKS! THIS BEHAVIOR CAN CAUSE PERMANENT TRACHEAL DAMAGE TO YOUR DOG. THE ORIGINAL CORRECTION COLLAR IS INCORRECTLY CALLED A CHOKE CHAIN. AND IT IS THE SOUND OF THIS COLLAR, NOT THE RESTRAINT, THAT SUPPOSED TO ENCOURAGE GOOD WALKING MANNERS. AGAIN -- USE POSITIVE ENCOURAGEMENT WHEN YOUR DOG WALKS AT YOUR SIDE (PRAISE CLICKER/FOOD YUM YUMS) AND A QUICK TUG WHEN HE PULLS AWAY. IF YOU’RE CHOKING YOUR DOG, THIS COLAR MAY NOT BE THE RIGHT CHOICE!!

THIS IS MY TERM FOR A PRODUCT THAT’S SOLD AS HALTI OR GENTLE LEADER. THE ONLY DIFFERECE BETWEEN THE TWO TYPES IS THAT THE GENTLE LEADER, A SLIGHTLY SOFTER MATERIAL, COMES WITH OPTIONAL INSTRUCTIONAL VIDEO AND BOOK. I LIKE THIS COLLAR TYPE BECAUSE IT GUIDES A DOG THROUGH WLAKS AND EXERCISES RATHER THAN YANKING ON HIS OR HER NECK. IF YOU’RE TRYING TO RESTRAIN A HYPER OR HEADSTRONG DOG, THIS MIGHT BE THE CHOICE FOR YOU. THIS COLLAR SHOULD BE USED ONLY TO REFRESH THE BASICS, NOT FOR TRICK TRAINING.

IF YOU HAVE A TEENY-TINY DOG, A BASIC HARNESS IS YOUR BEST BET. THIS STYLE COMES IN A VARIETY OF COLLARS, SO YOU CAN LET YOUR TASTE GO WILD!

FOR OR SIX FEET IN LENGTH, THIS LEASH HAS A CLIP ON ONE END AND A HANDLE ON THE OTHER. CLIP FOR THE DOG, HANDLE FOR YOU.

TEACHING LEAD 

THIS LEAD WAS PATENTED FOR BOTH METHODOLOGY AND DESIGN. FOR DOGS IN TRAINING IT COMMUNICATES LEADERSHIP PASSIVELY AND ALLOWS YOU TO TEACH GOOD BEHAVIOR AROUND THE HOUSE WITHOUT A CHAOTIC SCENE. IN ADDITION THE TEACHING LEAD COMES WITH A BOOKLET THAT INSTRUCTS THE MOST HUMANE HANDLING TECHNIQUES WITHOUT A LOT OF JERKING AND CONSTANT RESTRAINT. THERE ARE THREE APPLICATIONS TO MASTER WITH THE TEACHING LEAD; LEADING WHICH ENCOURAGES FOCUS AND QUICK RESPONSES TO COMMANDS; ANCHORING, WHICH TEACHES YOUR DOG TO LIE NEXT TO YOU WHEN YOU’RE SITTING; AND STATIONING, WHICH TEACHES YOUR DOG HIS PLACE IN EACH ROOM OF THE HOUSE. SOUNDS TOO GOOD TO BE TRUE? WELL IT’S ALL OF THAT AND SINCE DOGS GET MORE DIRECTION AND LESS CONFINEMENT, THEY LOVE IT TOO!

DRAG LEAD

A FOUR-FOOT NYLON LEASH A DOG CAN DRAG IN THE HOUSE, ENABLING GENTLE GUIDANE IF HE’S NAUGHTY OR CONFUSED.

THIS EIGHT TO TWELVE INCH LEAD HANGS FROM THE BUCKLE COLLAR FOR GUIDED DIRECTION IF IT’S NEEDED.

A TINY LOOP ATTACHED TO THE COLLAR FOR SMALL OR ACCOMPLISHED DOGS THAT MIGHT STILL NEED GUIDED DIRECTION.

GRABBING YOUR DOG’S COLLAR IMPULSIVELY IS STARTLING TO THE DOG AND NOT A GOOD TRAINING TECHNIQUE. DIRECT PRESSURE ON THE NECK ELICITS AN INNATE DEFENSICE RESPONSE. WHJEN REACHING FOR A SHORT LEASH. DO IT CALMLY AND GUIDE GENTLY.

THESE LEASHES STRETCH AND RETRACT AND ARE USEFUL FOR EXERCISE AND TRICK TRAINING THAT CALLS FOR SUCH CONTROLLED FREEDOM. PLEASE DON’T USE THIS LEASH NEAR A ROAD; I’VE KNOWN DOGS TO RACE OUT IN TRAFFIC AND MEET TRAGIC ENDS. ALSO MAKE SURE THAT YOU HAVE THE RIGHT RETACTABLE LEASH ACCORDING TO WEIGHT. DON’T BUY A SMALL ONE BECAUSE YOU LIKE THE WAY IT FITS IN YOUR HAND AND BECAUSE IT’S NICE AND SMALLER THEN THE ONE THAT YOU SHOULD HAVE FOR LETS SAY A 100 LB DOG. THAT ALSO HAS HAD SOME VERY TRAGIC ENDS AS WELL BECAUSE THE DOG PULLS HARDER THAN WHAT LET’S SAY A SMALL THAT’S MADE FOR A DOG THAT WEIGHS 20 LBS OR LESS.

IF YOUR DOG ALREADY KNOWS THE BASIC COMMANDS, YOU CAN ADVANCE TO OTHER CHAPTERS. BUT IF ALL THIS TRAINING STUFF IS NEW TO YOU AND YOUR FOUR LEGGED FRIEND, OR IF YOU NEED A QUICK REFRESHER, THIS SECTION BRINGS YOU BOTH UP TP SPEED. THE MAGIC SEVEN ARE A FOUNDATION FOR ALL TRICK TRAINING. HERE’S THE QUICK LIST:

THE BIGGEST MOTIVATING FACTOR IN TRAINING IS YOU. TO BE A GOOD TEACHER, REMEMBER THREE IMPORTANT THINGS: CONSISTENCY, CLARITY, AND COMPASSION.

WHEN YOU USE THE COMMAND, “LET’S GO” YOUR DOG SHOULD HAPPILY FOLLOW YOUR DIRECTION, WALKING IN RHYTHM WITH YOUR SPEED. AFTER YOU HAVE YOUR DOG USED TO HIS NAME, IT’S TIME TO TEACH HIM FOLLOWING MANNERS. WITH THE LEAD IN HAND OR AROUND YOUR WAIST IF YOU’RE USING THE TEACHING LEAD METHOD, TAKE SOME TREATS IN A CUP OR A FAVORITE TOY. WALK FORWARD CHEERFULLY CALLING HIS NAME. IF HE DARTS AHEAD, SHAKE THE TREAT CUP OR OFFER THE TOY AS YOU ENCOURAGE HIM TO FOLLOW YOU WITH, “LET’S GO.”

START TEACHING YOUR DOG “LET’S GO” IN UNDISTRACTING AREAS AND PRAISE/REWARD YOUR DOG FOR EACH TIME HE MAKES THE TURN WITH YOU. ONCE HE CATCHES ON TRY WALKING FORWARD CONFIDENTLY. THE SECOND YOUR DOG FORGES AHEAD OR BEHIND CALL, “NAME, LET’S GO” AND TURN AWAY PROMPTLY WITHOUT THOUGHT OR ENCOURAGEMENT. THE MINUTE HE RACES TO YOUR SIDE BY CHOICE OR LEASH ENCOURAGEMENT PRAISE AND REWARD HIM CONFIDENTLY. CONTINUE TO SO THIS EACH TIME YOUR DOG’S FOCUS WANTERS FROM YOU UNTIL YOUR DOG FIGURES OUT THAT YOU’RE THE ONE TO WATCH. WORK IN MORE DISTRACTING AREAS, AND FOLLOW THE SAME SEQUENCE OF REWARDS AND ENCOURAGEMENT.

SIT IS THE FIRST OF THE STATIONARY COMMANDS, AND IT’S NECESSARY TO LEARN IN ORDER TO GET TO THE FUN STUFF. TEACH IT BY USING THIS COMMON SENSE APPROACH: GIVE THE COMMAND “SIT” ONCE BEFORE ANYTHING YOUR DOG PERCEIVES AS POSITIVE SUCH AS MEALS, TREATS, TOYS, PATS, OR GREETINGS AT THE DOOR. ONCE OF THE BIGGEST MANNERS IS TO SIT AND NOT JUMP ALL OVER GUESTS THAT COME TO THE HOUSE. DOGS LEARN MANNERS AT HOME JUST AS KIDS LEARN MANNERS FROM THEIR PARENTS AT HOME. WHEN YOU WALK INTO THE HOUSE BE CALM AND DON’T PAY ATTENTION TO YOUR DOG UNTIL YOUR DOG IS COMPOSED ENOUGH TO SIT-STAY.

TO SIGNAL “SIT” SWING YOUR OPEN RIGHT HAND FROM YOUR DOG’S NOSE TO YOUR EYES, AS IF YOU’RE SCOOPING HIS ATTENTION TOWARD YOU.

START BY PRAISING YOUR DOG EACH TIME HE CHOOSES TO SIT. IF YOU’RE DOG IS MORE STUBBORN, THERE IS A TRICK ON HOW YOU CAN MINAPULATE HIM INTO THE SITTING POSITION BY TAKING A TREAT OR FAVORITE TOY, HOLD THE TREAT AT NOSE LEVEL OF THE DOG AND USE THE WORD “SIT” OR “NAME, SIT” WHILE MOVING YOUR HAND ABOVE AND BACK TILL HE HAS TO SIT TO BE ABLE TO KEEP HIS EYE ON THE TREAT OR TOY AND TO TRY TO EAT THE TREAT. OR YOU CAN TRY POSING THE DOG YOURSELF INTO A SIT POSITION. I JUST KNOW WITH HAVING CHINESE CRESTEDS THEY CAN BE A LITTLE MORE STIFF LEGGED AND IT CAN BE A CHALLEGE SO THE MINIPULATION IS EASIEST FOR ME.

NEXT, INTRODUCE THE “STAY” COMMAND. AT FIRST, SAY IT WHILE STANDING AT YOUR DOG’S SIDE, “STAY” THEN PAUSE AND RELEASE WITH “OKAY!” NOW TELL YOUR DOG TO STAY AND PIVOT DIRECTLY IN FRONT OF HIM; THE SEPERATION CHALLENGES A DOG’S IMPULSES. RETURN TO HIS SIDE AND RELEASE WITH “OKAY!” AS YOUR DOG CATCHES ON, INCREASE YOUR DISTANCE AND ADD SOME DISTRACTIONS BY HOPING AROUND OR MAKING FUNNY SOUNDS. MAKE IT FUN FOR BOTH OF YOU! IF YOUR DOG STANDS UP REPOSITION HIM CALMLY AND REMIND HIM TO “STAY”. ALSO I USE A HAND MOTION WHEN USING THE COMMAND, “STAY” I HOLD MY HAND FLAT WITH THE PALM FACING THE DOGS FACE AND INFRONT OF HIS NOSE AND SAY “STAY” AS THEY GET BETTER YOU WON’T EVEN HAVE TO SAY ANY OF THE COMMANDS THEY’LL KNOW BY YOUR HAND MOTIONS ON WHAT YOU WANT THEM TO DO. SLOWLY AS YOUR DOG IMPROVES WITH THE SIT/STAY MOVE FURTHER OUT FRONT. REMEMBER TO ALWAYS RETURN TO THE DOG’S SIDE BEFORE RELEASE TO ENSURE THAT HE DOESN’T GET UP WHILE YOU’RE APART. ALSO TRY THIE SIT/STAY WITH MORE DISTRACTIONS FROM OTHER PEOPLE OR AT PARKS, ETC…

THE SECOND STATIONARY COMMAND, “WAIT” AMD “OKAY” IS A REAL PRIZE! IT MEANS TO STAND STILL AND WAIT TO BE RELEASED. FIRST YOU MUST TEACH YOUR DOG THAT “WAIT” MEANS STOP, STAND, AND LOOK UP TO YOU FOR DIRECTION. “OKAY” MEANS IT’S ALL RIGHT TO MOVE. LIKE “SIT” AND “STAY” YOU ARE TEACHING YOUR DOG TO WAIT FOR PERMISSION. IT’S A SELF-CONTROL THING. YOU TEACH IT LIKE THIS:

NOW YOU’RE READY FOR THE REAL CHALLENGE. GO TO YOUR MAIN DOORWAY. PREPARE YOURSELF AS PREVIOUSLY, HOLDING THE LEASH AND CARRYING A FAVORITE TOY OR TREAT. COMMAND “WAIT” JUST BEFORE YOU OPEN THE DOOR. IF YOUR DOG BOLTS, BE READY TO PULL HIM BACK TO YOUR FEET AND REMIND HIM, “WAIT” WHEN HE DOES SAY, “OKAY” AS YOU REWARD HIM AND LEAD HIM THROUGH.

AFTER YOU’VE MASTERED THE FRONT DOOR, TRY THE CAR. TAKE YOUR DOG AND INSTRUCT HIM TO “WAIT” AS YOU OPEN THE CAR DOOR. IF HE LUNGES, SNAP HIM BACK REFUSING TO LET HIM IN UNTIL HE LOOKS TO YOU FOR PERMISSION.

AFTER YOU’VE MASTERED THIS FUN COMMAND, YOU SHOULD NOTICE THAT EVERY TIME HE HEARS “WAIT” KEEP USING THIS COMMAND ANYTIME YOU WANT YOUR DOG TO STAND STILL LIKE WHEN TALKING TO FRIENDS, CROSSING THE STREET, VISITING THE VETERNARN, OR AS A PREMININARY STEP TO MORE ADVANCE TRAINING. ALSO LIKE WITH THE COMMAND “STAY” USE YOUR HAND TO SIGNAL “WAIT” BY FLASHING YOUR PALM FLAT AND FACING YOUR DOGS FACE QUICKLY IN FRONT OF YOUR DOG’S NOSE WHILE YOU FIRMLY SAY WAIT. THEN FOR “OKAY” USE AN UPBEAT FLASH OUTWARD TO RELEASE HIM. WHEN HE’S PERFECTED THIS LET HIM DRAG A LIGHT 24 FOOT NYLON LEASH WHEN COMPANY’S AROUND OR WHEN WALKING. IF HE STARTS TO BECOME EXCITED OR RUN AWAY FROM YOU, STEP OM THE LEAD AND INSTRUCT “WAIT” AFTER ABOUT 2-4 WEEKS PRACTICE, START USING THE COMMAND OFF LEASH. FIRST MAKE SURE TO USE A NON-DISTRACTING ENVIRONMENT WHERE YOU KNOW YOUR DOG IS SAFE, LIKE A STAIRWAY OR BETWEEN ROOMS. HOLD THE TOY OR TREAT DISTRACTION AND INSTRUCT “WAIT” IF YOUR DOG RACES AHEAD, YOU’VE GOT SOME MORE ON-LEASH PRACTICE TO ENFORCE. RELEASE WITH “OKAY” AND REWARD YOUR DOG EACH TIME HE LISTENS. THAT’S THE MOST IMPORTANT THING IS TO KEEP REMEMBERING TO PRAISE AND REWARD WITH THE TOY OR TREAT. GRADUALLY PROGRESS TO MORE DISTRACTING ENVIRONMENTS.

OK NOW BACK TO WORK….

THE LAST OF THE STATIONARY COMMNADS, “DOWN” IS A BEAUTY. SO APPLICABLE AND SO USEFUL. INITIALY THIS EXERCISE CAN BE A REAL BEAR TO TEACH, BUT IF YOU BUILD IT AROUND POSITIVE REINFORCEMENT YOUR DOG WILL CATCH ON IN NO TIME.

YOU CAN ALSO HAVE HIM IN THE SITTING POSITION AND GENTLY TAKE HIS FRONT TWO LEGS AND PULL THEM OUTWARD UNTIL HIS ELBOWS ARE ON THE GROUND AND SAY “DOWN” SOME DOGS ARE GOOD ABOUT YOU DOING THAT TO THEM, OTHERS ARE NOT. DEFINITELY NOT MY STIFF LITTLE CRESTEDS! THEY NEED THE ABOVE MINIPULTATION TO WORK. THE ABOVE IS USUALLY EASIER. THE SECOND WAY WAS TAUGHT TO ME WHEN I FIRST STARTED TRAINING OBEDIENCE IN 4-H!!

CONTINUE THIS EXCHANGE FOR ANYTHING POSITIVE. AFTER THREE DAYS, SAY “DOWN” FROM A STANDING POSITION, ADDING YOUR HAND SIGNAL, WHICH IS A DOWNWARD DROP OF YOUR LEFT HAND. CONTINUE THE REWARD EXCHANGE FOR ANOTHER THREE DAYS, THEN BEGIN TO PHASE OUT THE OBJECT REWARD, RELYING SOLELY ON YOUR VERBAL PRAISE.

SOME DOGS WANT NOTHING TO DO WITH THE “DOWN” COMAND. THEY CONSIDER LOWERING THEMSELVES AS INDIGNITY. YOU CAN ALSO TRY THIS FINAL TRICK TO ENCOURAGE THE PROPER MOTION. PRESS YOUR LEFT THUMB GENTLY BETWEEN THEIR SHOULD BLADES AS YOU LIFE A FRONT PAW OUT GENTLY.

ANYONE OF THOSE THREE TRICKS SHOULD WORK. IT MIGHT BE TOUGH AT FIRST BUT JUST KEEP TRYING IT OVER AND OVER AGAIN AND BEFORE YOU KNOW IT, THE LIGHT BULB WILL GO OFF AND THEY’LL GET IT.

THIS COMMAND NEEDS TO BE SAID WITH AN OUNCE OF ATTITUDE. IT’S A GOOD ONE WHEN YOU HAVE YOUR DOG UNDER FOOT, CROSSES IN FRONT OF YOU, OR SWINGS TO THE WRONG SIDE WHEN YOU’RE WALKING.

“EXCUSE ME” COMMUNICATES LEADERSHIP, AND PASSIVELY TEACHES YOUR DOG THAT YOU’RE THE ONE TO WATCH. IN DOGLAND, LEADERS DEFINE SPACE AND SUBORDINATES RESPECT IT. HOW OFTEN DOES YOUR DOG NATURALLY WATCH OUT FOR YOU? HOW OFTEN DOES HE AUTOMATIALLY GET UP AND MOVE ASIDE WHEN YOU PASS?

NEW RULES START TODAY. IF YOUR DOG IS IN YOUR WAY, SAY “EXCUSE ME” AND SHUFFLE THROUGH UNTIL YOUR DOG MOVES TO ONE SIDE. NO STEPPING OVER YOUR DOG. NO CHANGING YOUR DIRECTION. IF HE WON’T MOVE, SHIMY YOUR FEET BENEATH HIM OR NUDGE HIM ASIDE WITH YOUR KNEES. DON’T NAVIGATE EVEN AN INCH. “EXCUSE ME” SHOULD MEAN CLEAR THE WAY.

THE DOG MUST LEARN THE THREE INCH EXCLUSION ZONE. UNLESS YOU INVITE HIM IN FOR A HUG, HE MUST RESPECT THIS SPACE BETWEEN YOU AND HIM. CROWDING IS A SIGN OF DOMINANCE OR INSECURITY. NEITHER IS GOOD FOR LONG TERM RELATIONSHIPS. IF YOUR DOG LEANS UNINVITED, SAY “EXCUSE ME” AND USE YOUR LEG TO GENTLY PUSH HIM ASIDE.

THIS IS AN IMPORTANT TERM, TEACH THIS TO YOU DOG AS A DIRECTION, NOT A CORRECTION. “NO” WILL INSTRUCT YOUR DOG TO BACK OFF TEMPTATION, WHETHER THE TEMPTATIONS ARE FOOD, MOVING OBJECTS, OR OTHER DISTRACTIONS. TAUGHT AS A CORRECTION WHILE A NAUGHTY BEHAVIOR IS IN PROCESS, THIS COMMAND WILL CAUSE THE DOG TO STOP INSTANTLY, BUT HE WILL NOT RETAIN THE CORRETION (DOGS JUST DON’T THINK LIKE WE DO). THINK OF THE DOG CHASING A SQUIRREL -- CORRECTIONS ARE CONSIDERED INTERACTIVE, AND THE DOG WILL RETURN TO THE BAD BEHAVIOR LOATER, PERHAPS WHILE YOU’RE NOT LOOKING! SOME DOGS HEAR “NO!” SO OFTERN THEY CONSIDER IT A MIDDLE NAME.

TO TEACH YOUR DOG TO RESPECT “NO” YOU MUST FIRST TEACH HIM WHAT “NO” MEANS, HERE’S HOW:

PRETTY SOON YOUR DOG WILL SEE A TEMPTING SOMETHING ON THE FLOOR AND TURN HIS NOSE TOWARD THE SKY, AS IF TO SAY, “I DON’T SEE ANYTHING!” NOW YOU CAN PRACTICE ON OTHER DISTRACTIONS LIKE CARS, KIDS, SMALL CREATURES, AND ANY OTHER DISTRACTIONS. MAKE A HUGE DEAL WHEN YOUR DOG FOCUSES ON YOU!

THE LEASH SNAP ON THE “NO” COMMAND MUST HAPPEN SIMULTANENEOUSLY FOR ANY LONG-TERM, OFF-LEASH VALUE. THE SNAP ALONE WORKS, BUT YOU FORGET TO SAY “NO” YOUR DOG WILL HAVE NO IDEA WHAT YOU’RE TYALKING ABOUT WHEN HE’S OFF LEASH.

TIMING IS EVERYTHING. CORRECTIONS MUST BE GIVEN THE SECOND YOUR DOG STARTS TO CONTEMPLATE A MISCHIEVOUS DEED, NOT AFTER THE FACT. IF HE’S ALREADY DOWNED THE COOKIES, YOU’RE TOO LATE!