CHAPTER SIX
K-911:
KEEPING INJURIES AT BAY WITH A HEALTH PLAN
IN THIS CHAPTER
GETTING A CLEAN BILL OF HEALTH FROM YOUR VET
FOLLOWING A HEALTH-MAINTENANCE PLAN
CONDITIONING -- FOR BOTH OF YOU!
DEALING WITH LIMPING AND OTHER INJURIES
TRANSPORTING AN INJURED DOG
Even though I’m a model: I’m not a huge exercise fan. Oh sure, I used to be a competitive figure skater and volleyball champion, but now I’d rather curl up watching movies than skating around in itty bitty dresses.
Recently, to my surprise I (and the astonishment of those who know me well) I found myself persuaded to join a health club in Los Angeles. After the first two days I thought I was going die. Everything ached. Then I started to question my diet. I’m a total junk food maniac, but that’s what fitness does to you -- makes you question your old life completely. Then I started to wonder as I complained about a sore neck and back or a throbbing knee if I should abort the whole fitness endeavor and return to my old, sedentary life.
Well, many days have passed, and although I’m not fitness junkie, I’m still working out. So why am I telling you this? Because if your dog could tell you his thoughts, he’d have similar comments to make. Getting physical with your dog, especially if he’s adjusted to a less than physical way of life, will be a transition. Although your dog will enjoy the extra attention, you can’t forget that he has some adjusting to do, too. Evaluating his diet, recognizing the importance of proper conditioning, and being aware of common sports injuries is necessary to get your dear doggy into the exercise groove.
GROOMING
Grooming can be your worst nightmare or your best friend. If the thought of brushing your dog troubles you, try this approach:
Start with a soft-bristled brush. (you may use firmer brush when your dog is more accepting, but soft is better when starting out.)
Call your dog aside happily, giving him a treat when he comes.
Take some peanut butter and rub it on the refrigerator at your dog’s nose level.
While he licks it off, say “Stand” and brush gently. Praise, too!
Quit while you’re ahead -- stop brushing before the dog becomes fidgety. Slowly increase the brushing with each subsequent session.
Eventually, your dog will consider times endearing.
BATHING
Every dog has to take a bath sometime. Short-coated breeds need a bath less often than long-coats - unless, they’re avid excrement rollers. To make the bath a positive experience, lay a towel on the bottom of the sink or tub for your dog to stand on comfortably without slipping, and spread peanut butter around the edge to occupy your dog while you scrub. Small dogs can be bathed in the sink or if I’m in a hurry I will actually take my little one in the shower with me. They’re a little more comfortable with you in the shower with them also getting wet. Large breeds fit better in a tub or can be hosed off outside if the water temperature can be adjusted.
The peanut butter trick also works wonders when you must towel dry or wipe a dog’s paws. If early association with the activity is positive, your dog will be much easier to handle down the road. If your dog’s not a big peanut butter fan, try some soft cheese or chicken or beef broth.
Shampooing a malodorous mutt makes him socially acceptable. But remember that shampooing also strips away natural oils in a dog’s coat. Shampooed too often, the coat will dry out and become brittle. So bathe your dog only once a month.
“MANICURE DAY”
Unfortunately, dogs don’t relate to the whole manicure thing the way some people do. I hate to sounds repetitive, but using treats or peanut butter can calm the most savage beast!
Nail clippers for dogs look like a downsized guillotine -- sharp and defining. The hand-clasp action provides the power needed to cut through a dog’s nail. Don’t try human clippers -- they’re not strong enough.
When clipping, make sure you clip the very tip of the nail, just as it starts to curl. (If your dog has light colored nails, you can see the delicate blood vessel inside; that’s the part you want to avoid!) And don’t overlook dew claws or hind nails, if any. Though they grow slowly, they still need your attention. If nails grow too long they can crack, break, get caught and be ripped out, or become ingrown. Ouch!!
If your dog isn’t comfortable having his feet handled, make it a part of your everyday interactions. Handle the feet when giving a treat, petting, or feeding. Tell your dog how wonderful his feet are. Kiss them when he’s sleeping. (okay, you don’t have to kiss your dog’s feet, but you can!!)
Be careful to avoid cutting into your dog’s tissue. Aside from being excruciatingly painful, the wound can bleed for hours. To prevent excess bleeding, get a clotting solution form your veterinarian. Also they sell Dog Clippers that have a clotting powder in the handle and also a file to file them so their not too sharp after cutting. The solution works like magic. In a pinch, you can use a little bit of cornstarch, but the clotting solution is better.
If your dog is totally opposed to the clipper, you’ll have to do some conditioning work there, too. Let your dog get accustomed to the clipper sound when you’re playing or talking to him. The pretend to clip around your dog’s paws, without coming into contact. Next, try cutting one nail -- just one. Slowly build up his tolerance, one nail at a time!
EYES
Dogs don’t spend as much time on their looks as you do, but that doesn’t mean their facial features should go unnoticed, beginning with those wonderful eyes. Soulful, sweet, comic -- your dog’s eyes tell it all. It’s up to you to keep the eyes healthy, bright, and clear.
Don’t let your dog hang his head out the car window. Sure, it looks refreshing, but one pebble could knock out an eye for good.
So, be careful when playing games or practicing tricks that call for the use of a pointy object or stick. Eyes are very tender! Take care of them and take your dog to the doctor if his eyes get tearful, red, swollen, or itchy.
If you have a long hair breed, carefully clip the hair surrounding the eyes -- the better to see you with. Look for the rubber bands that don’t cause hair breakage. They should have them at most stores, their small, come in different colors, and are rubber.
If your veterinarian prescribes eye medication, administer it carefully. Use peanut butter on the fridge or a bowl of broth in a friend’s lap to occupy your dog while you medicate him. Place your hand carefully under your dog’s chin and pull the lower eyelid down until you see the white part. Squeeze the drops in there.
*Tip:
If you have a white dog or a light colored dog that seems to get dirty or rusty under the eyes. There are a few different things you can try to get rid of it.
1. Try puling up the hair with a rubber band talked about above to keep the hair out of his eyes.
2. You can try either only giving him distilled drinking water in his dish
3. If the distilled water doesn’t work you can also try putting about a tablespoon of tomato juice in his food.
4. There is also a product on the market called “Angel Eyes” and a lot of people have had success with the product.
5. Always try to keep the hair and eye area clean. Look for a face wash for dogs that won’t hurt their eyes if it get’s into their eyes.
6. If non of those tips seem to work then contact your vet and see what products they have for your dog. They have two different types of medications you can give them.
Ears
Ears mesmerize me. I can lull myself into a trance petting a dog’s ears, and it doesn’t seem to matter what shape -- uprights, floppy, short, or cropped. Dogs seem to love the ear massage too!
Different dogs require different cleaning schedules, from every couple of weeks to daily. You dog’s activity and the weather also influence the frequency of cleaning. If your dog is an Olympic swimmer, I suggest daily cleaning before bed. In most cases, twice a month is sufficient.
To clean the outer flap, ask your vet to recommend a commercial ear solution that will prevent infection. Soak a cotton swab with the solution and wipe the outer ear flap.
Never, never, never use a Q-tip or poke your finger into your dog’s ear. You can do irreparable damage to your dog’s inner ear!
If your dog’s ear gets infected, follow the same procedure that was used for medicating the eye. If your dog has drop ears, gently lift the flap and place the medicine where your veterinarian has instructed.
Tip:
For general cleaning of my dog’s ears I use either anti-bacterial wet wipes that you can find in most stores in a round container or you can use baby wipes to clean the ears. I think they work great! If your dog does have a lot of dirt in the ears or is holding his head to the side he most likely has an ear infection and you should contact your vet immediately. Your dog can loose hearing if the infection goes too long. Also if your dog seems to be getting frequent ear infections it could be an allergy. If he does get them frequently then I’d suggest going to a natural vet and try to figure out what your dog is allergic to. I had this happen with my German Shepherd.
NOSE
There’s not too much to say about the dog’s nose. When I was growing up people used to say you could tell a dog’s mood by touching his nose. If it was hot, the dog was sick: too dry, the dog was depressed. The truth is there’s no truth to that old wives tale. A dog’s nose can heat up in a warm environment and can dry out when the air is dry. If you want to know if your dog’s running a fever, take his temperature -- rectal style.
A dog’s nose can become discolored from the sun, from an allergic reaction to a food dish, or from household detergent. In such cases, use a stainless steel feeding bowl, and clean house with environmentally safe products such as vinegar, you’d be amazed at how clean vinegar get’s your house, and you can use it on pretty much everything. You won’t believe how clean you glass and mirrors get! When your dog goes out into the sun, protect that nose with sunblock atleast a SPF 45! Also when buying SPF make sure to look for the cancer symbol on the back. Not all sunblocks have good sunblocking protection!
MOUTH
I have one obsession: It’s my teeth!!! I love brushing, flossing, and going to the dentist and getting them whitened. Strange I know. Based on this, you probably know what I’m going to suggest before I even write it. You must take care of your dog’s teeth. Though dogs are less prone to tartar buildup than people, they’re not immune. Sure, they have more concentrated saliva and they chew bones and things, but this doesn‘t take the place of dental care. Without a little help from their friends (that’s you), they’ll suffer from tooth decay, cavities, abscesses, periodontal disease, and tooth loss.
To keep your dog’s teeth healthy:
Feed dry food, Crunchy is better
Brush your dog’s teeth once a week, using a special canine toothpaste. If your dog won’t settle for the brush, use your finger or buy a special finger tooth brush for pets.
Avoid human toothpaste; fluoride and dogs don’t mix
STAYING IN SHAPE --- CONDITIONING!
To preserve your dog’s good health -- and before you jump into a new trick training system regime -- you need to make sure he’s in top physical shape ir has a program to get him there. Just like humans, pushing your dog too far too fast can lead to trouble.
THE HIP BONE’S CONNECTED TO THE THIGH BONE
If you could see inside your little trickster and compare anatomies, you’d see that you and your dog are a lot alike. Sure the bones are stacked differently, but they’re all there - shoulders, elbows, hips, toes, and so on -- all put together like a beautiful picture puzzle.
Also like us, dogs’ bones are glued together with special tissues called ligaments. The place where bones meet each other is called a joint, and it’s movement and flexibility is controlled by tendons, which connect muscle to bone. Where free-moving joints meet, a layer of cartilage protects the ends.
In a perfect world this puzzle would always be the same, but there is no such thing as a perfect world. Each dog has a unique conformation, and understanding your dog’s physical strengths and limitations is necessary for training.
EASING INTO TRICK TRAINING
If your dog is anything like me, the thought of exercising will send him flying under the bed. Fortunately, however, most dogs aren’t like me. They love to run and play and be a part of whatever you’re doing. But if your dog has not been out for a good run in a long time, you’ll need to ease him in slowly. Conditioning for dogs is like conditioning for us -- a necessary evil.
Start with conditioning for tricks and obedience. Most of the stunts
outlined in this book don’t require tremendous amounts of physical
exertion. However, if your dog has been off the training wagon for
sometime, keep the lessons short and upbeat to start: No more than five
minutes. He doesn’t have to master a trick a day.
Start with tricks that are easy for him to master and that make you
Laugh. Laughter is a great encouragement. You can have practice
sessions three times a day if your schedule allows, but short lessons are
best.
Conditioning for activities is another thing. Are you pumped up to start
racing that dog of yours over every tree and up ladders? Whoa Nelly!
Your dog will want to try everything you introduce him to, but is he
ready? If your dog can’t tell a tree stump from an ottoman, start small.
No need to conquer the world in a day!
First, take a couple of weeks to make sure your dog can handle the
excitement. Go for half-mile hikes, building the distance over time. A
4-month-old pup will run until his legs can’t carry him, but all that
Exercise can permanently alter his growing muscles and cause him hip
Problems later in life. I know -- teaching your dog new stuff is a lot of
Fun, but you need to be the parent here and do what is best for your
dog’s health and ability to live a nice long life.
Never forget the age factor. Growing pups are in the majority where
sports injuries are concerned. A young dog’s energy and enthusiasm
Can be quite misleading: They’ll want to try everything and give no
thought to the consequences. Overly strenuous activity, slippery
footing, or excessive jumping causes trauma to bones and joints.
During your puppy’s growth phase -- 4-and-a-half to 9 months -- keep
his activity level regulated and don’t encourage jumping.
With any sort of activity comes the possibility of injury. Because dogs
often want to do more than their bodies can handle, you need to put
restrictions on their enthusiasm.
Let’s talk breeds. Picture a Dachshund: dwarfed-out legs, long body, endearing eyes, and the greatest paddle paws on the planet. Now clear your head and envision a Boxer: upright, statuesque, proud, magnificently angled, and proportioned to a T. No one on the
planet would ever ask them both for the same performance. One has
legs meant for digging, the other for running. Now go look at your dog
what breed or mix breeds do you have? Sure, you may be all hyped for
Agility trials, but if your Bulldog Mugs is snoring on the couch, don’t
plan on taking home any trophies.
FIRST AID FOR INJURIES
Activity training whether it be the simplest tricks, such as wagging the
tail, or jumping an Agility wall, requires movement. And with all
movement there is the possibility or injury. From a torn ligament or
cartilage to a slipped spinal disk, you must learn to read dog’s signs,
because he can’t talk to you.
If your dog has an accident during a workout, you need to stay cool. If
you lose it, he’ll get nervous and go to pieces, Be a rock of confidence.
Be mentally tough. Organize. Think. If necessary, get him to the
hospital as quickly and as carefully as possible.
LIMPING
Jumping is the most common result of a sport injury. Your job is to
find out what is causing your dog to limp and which body part is in
trouble. To figure out just where the pain is centralized, follow these
steps:
1. Observe your dog when he’s standing still.
He’ll lean away from the hurt leg and put pressure on his stronger side,
for example if he hurt his right front, he’ll lean to the left and put
weight onto the two back and the front left.
2. Watch him walk.
He’ll take a shorter step on his injured leg. His head also may bob up
and down to compensate for the pressure he’s trying to keep off his
injured limb.
3. To pinpoint the specific injury site, carefully rub your hands along
your dog’s joints and note and muscle tenderness.
If you’re still puzzled, gently flex and rotate your dog’s joints. If he
winces, whimpers, or moves from you, guess what? He’s hurting!
4. Look for discoloration and swelling.
5. Take your dog’s temperature with a human rectal thermometer.
(Use KY Jelly to insert) The normal range is 100 to 103 degrees.
Chinese Cresteds are usually always on the high end around 103
degrees.
I took my dog’s temperature on a good day, noting their healthy
reading, so that I could compare. (I know you want to quit reading this
right away and take your dog’s temperature!! J )
After you identify the source of the problem, check the dog’s symptoms
And follow the treatment plan. Remember that the quicker you or your
vet diagnoses an injury, the easier it is to treat and the less likely it is
that your dog will need surgery. That’s why it’s important to see your
vet whenever your dog gets hurt.
HOW TO PREVENT BITING
Even the most beloved pet may bite when in pain or confused. If he
doesn’t bite you, he’ll probably go for his veterinarian or one of the
technicians, so restrain your dog for their sakes please.
The simplest retraining technique requires a bandanna or a rope:
1. Fold the bandanna into a long band.
2. Drape the center of the band across the top of your dog’s nose
3. Cross the two ends underneath your dog’s chin. Tie the end securely behind your dog’s ears.
4. Check the crossing point underneath. If it’s too loose, your dog will pull it off; it it’s too tight you’ll choke your dog, so be careful!
COMMON SPORTS INJURIES
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---------------------------------------------------------------------------------INJURY WHAT IS IT? CAUSES SYMPTOMS TREATMENT
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INJURY
SPRAIN
WHAT IS THIS?
Stretching or Laceration of The ligaments, Most commonly In the joints
CAUSES
Stretching, a blow, lack of conditioning
SYMPTOMS
Pain over the joint, swelling lameness, decreased enthusiasm for Activity
TREATMENT
Rest and more rest; Ice the area 20 mins. Per hour for 3 Hrs. avoid Pain meds As it Encourages Use of the limb, unless recommended By your Veterinarian.
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INJURY
Tendonitis
WHAT IS THIS?
Inflammation of the tendon
CAUSES
Overuse, too much activity An accident Causing Twisting or Wrenching
SYMPTOMS
Localized Swelling, painful movement limping
TREATMENT
Plenty of rest; splinting may be necessary; stop all activity that puts pressure on the injured area; don’t use pain relievers without your vet's recommendation.
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INJURY
Muscle strain
WHAT IS THIS?
An injured or torn muscle
CAUSES
Overexertion, a sudden stretch, a blow to the muscle, lack of conditioning, unrealistic expectations
SYMPTOMS
Limping, swelling, a knotted and tight muscle, tenderness at the injured spot
TREATMENT
Rest, cold packs as for sprain.
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INJURY
Torn Ligament
WHAT IS THIS?
Tear or laceration to the ligament
CAUSES
Stretching, a blow, lack of conditioning, a knotted or tight muscle
SYMPTOMS
Moderate to severe lameness or complete inability to use the limb, swelling, tenderness
TREATMENT
Requires immediate veterinary attention, often demands surgical repair to avoid developing scar tissue.
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INJURY
Dislocated Joint
WHAT IS THIS?
Joint ruptures and displaces bone
CAUSES
Falling, collision with a hard object such as wall
SYMPTOMS
Immediate pain, inability to use the limb, visible deformity
TREATMENT
See your veterinarian immediately, if dog is in shock, treat that first.
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INJURY
Fracture
WHAT IS THIS?
Broken Bone
CAUSES
Severe trauma, such as a fall or a car accident
SYMPTOMS
Pain refusal to use the limb, bone may protrude limb through the skin
TREATMENT
Muzzle the dog, immobilize the limb, take immediately to the hospital; if you Suspect internal or spinal injury, place aBoard to move; the dog may also experience shock, blood loss, or Internal bleeding--Address these problems first.
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GENETIC SKELETAL DISORDERS
Parent dogs pass on genetic disorders to their puppies via blueprints
known as genes. Hip Dysplasia, which mostly occurs in larger dogs,
both pure-bred and mixed, is one of these genetic disorders. Normally,
the head of the femur (thighbone) fits into the hip socket and rotates
freely as your dog moves around. In a moderately dysplastic dog,
however, loose ligaments allow the head of the femur to begin to work
free. A shallow cup in the hip socket also contributes to this condition.
Because of this joint laxity, there is abnormal wear and tear on the
joint. In time, this condition leads to arthritis, in the dysplastic joint.
Mild dysphasia creates slips in motion, discomfort, and instability.
When hip dysphasia is severe, it’s extremely painful. The Xrays make
you cringe! With the femoral head degenerated and practically
dislocated, motion is crippled and pain is constant. Your veterinarian
will inform you of surgical options.
If your dog has a skeletal disorder such as hip or elbow dysphasia, I’m
sorry. It’s a big disappointment for both of you, but what are you going
to do? You must deal with it and respect the limitations it will put on
training.
Despite any predisposition in your dog for disorders, you can avoid the
worst effects by controlling his diet and avoiding stressful exercise.
Consider the following:
Neuter your dog. Don’t pass on your dog’s problem to future generations.
Feed your dog a balanced diet.
Avoid high-calorie, rapid-growth diets. They can aggravate the disorder. The tissues, bones, and muscles must grow together evenly.
Avoid supplementing the diet, especially with calcium. Ask for your veterinarian’s suggestion
Keep your dog’s weight down. Too many pounds on a stressed joint is a bad thing.
Talk to your dog’s breeder. He should know of your heartache. If the breeder is responsible, he’ll eliminate that breeding combination.
Avoid all contributing environmental factors. Long jogs are no good. Correct jumping habits. Are stairs stressful? Talk to your vet.
Buy cozy bedding. Heating pads help too -- Ah Heaven!
Carpet any area your dog travels frequently. Slippery floors don’t provide good traction.
Avoid leaving your dog out in the cold. Keep him in a warm, dry environment, especially at night.
Last, but not least, massage that joint. (Avoid putting pressure on the joint itself.) Get blood flowing to the muscles, especially if your dog is on bed rest.
Dysplastic dogs do get to enjoy one wonderful exercise: Swimming. Not everyone is fortunate enough to have a pond or a pool in the backyard, but if you look hard enough, you may be able to find a place nearby where your dog can swim. Long swims and leash walks on turf (no cement) can build up the muscles and slowly build your dog’s strength. If you have a setback and the limping starts again, talk to your veterinarian and ease off strenuous exercise and training. Start back slowly when you receive the go-ahead. Your dog is physically handicapped. He needs you to take care of him.
SHOCK
A dog can go into shock if there’s a sudden loss of blood, a trauma, or electric shock. Shock is life-threatening; it causes blood pressure to drop dramatically, which prevents oxygen from circulating in the body Without oxygen the body dies.
A severe accident can send your dog into shock, which can be fatal if not treated promptly. Dogs in shock must see a veterinarian. Have someone call the animal hospital so that they’ll be prepared to help upon your arrival.
A dog in shock shows the following symptoms:
A fast heart rate, as the heart tries to make up for a drop in blood pressure
Rapid breathing, because the body is trying to increase oxygen flow
Dilated pupils and a glaring stare
Unconscious or semiconscious behavior
If you suspect your dog has gone into shock, stay calm, keep him still, and get to the nearest veterinarian immediately.
TRANSPORTING AN INJURED DOG
Transporting a dog that has internal injuries is tricky business. He’ll be restless and want to move, and it’s your job to make sure he doesn’t. It’s best to have someone help you -- the other person can drive and you can comfort and restrain your dog to the vet. But try to have someone call ahead so that the hospital is prepared to help upon your arrival.
It you suspect a broken done, a spinal injury, or internal bleeding, transport your dog on a firm surface such as metal or plywood. Know where to find such a stretcher in case of an emergency. Place a blanket over the dog, but don’t cover his face, as doing so may frighten him.
Be ready! Place towels and a dog-sized board aside for emergencies.