HOUSETRAINING MADE EASY

SOME BREEDERS USE A LARGE DOG LITTER BOX FILLED WITH CEDAR CHIPS FOR PUPPIES. WHEN PEOPLE TAKE THEIR PUPPIES HOME, THEY’LL GIVE THEM SOME OF THE SOILED CEDAR AND TELL THEM TO FIND AN AREA WHERE THEY WANT THE PUP TO GO AND SPRINKLE THE CEDAR IN THAT AREA. WHEN THEY TAKE THE PUPPY THERE TO POTTY, THE PUPPY WILL IMMEDIATELY GO BECAUSE HE KNOWS WHAT THAT AREA IS FOR, I’VE BEEN PRACTICING THIS FOR A FEW YEARS NOW AND GET MANY COMPLIMENTS ON HOW FAST THE PUPPIES ARE HOUSETRAINED AND THAT THEY HAVE FEW OR NO ACCIDENTS IN THE HOUSE,

FINDING A BREEDER WHO HOUSETRAINS PUPPIES THIS WAY IS JOB #1 FOR PUPPY BUYERS, BUT IF THAT WASN’T YOUR CASE, THESE EXPERT TIPS WILL START YOU AND YOUR PUP ON THE PATH TO HOUSETRAINING SUCCESS.

A CRATE SERVES AS THE PUPPY’S DEN, OR SAFE PLACE, WHERE HE CAN RELAX. BECAUSE IT’S HIS SLEEPING SPOT, HE WON’T WANT TO SOIL IT BY POTTING THERE. AND WHEN HE’S SAFELY CONFINED IN IT, YOU DON’T HAVE TO WORRY THAT HE’LL HAVE AN ACCIDENT IN THE HOUSE.

BUY A CRATE LARGE ENOUGH FOR YOUR DOG TO TURN AROUND AND LIE DOWN. ANY MORE SPACE THAN THAT AND HE MIGHT LIE AT ONE END AND USE THE OTHER FOR A POTTY. INVESTING IN A CRATE WITH A REMOVABLE PANEL SO YOU CAN SECTION OFF THE DURABLE AND CAN BE ADJUSTED AS YOUR PUPPY GROWS, THEN REMOVED ENTIRELY ONCE HE’S FULL GROWN.

CRATETRAINING IS IMPORTANT BECAUSE IT TEACHES THE PUPPY TO WANT TO CONTROL HIS BLADDER AND BOWELS. OTHER METHODS OFTEN FAIL BECAUSE THEY ALLOW THE PUP TO RELIEVE HIMSELF WHENEVER AND WHEREVER HE LIKES. THERE IS NEVER A REASON NOT TO GO. A CRATE HELPS HIM TO LEARN CONTROL.

YOU CAN BLOCK OFF THE BACK OF THE CRATE WITH A BOX OR SOME OTHER ITEM THAT THE PUPPY CAN’T GET OVER OR AROUND. JUST BE SURE IT’S SAFE AND NOT EDIBLE!

HEAVY OBJECTS SUCH AS BRICKS OR CONCRETE BLOCKS CAN FALL ON, TRAP OR INJURE YOUR PUPPY, CREATING A VERY NEGATIVE CRATE EXPERIENCE THAT COULD BE WITH THE PUPPY FOR A LIFETIME. I HAVE USED OVERSIZED STUFFED DOG BEDS OR TOYS TO TAKE UP A LARGE PORTION OF THE CRATE. THIS WORKS WELL IF YOUR PUPPY ISN’T USING THE BEDDING TO ABSORB HIS URINE. YOU CAN ALSO USE EMPTY CARDBOARD BOXES, BUT KEEP AN EYE ON THEM TO SEE THAT THE PUPPY ISN’T CHEWING THEM EXCESSIVELY.

STICK TO A SCHEDULE

TAKING YOUR PUPPY OUT AT REGULAR INTERVALS ALSO CONTRIBUTES TO HOUSETRAINING SUCCESS. PUPPIES NEED TO GO OUT FIRST THING IN THE MORNING, IMMEDIATELY AFTER EVERY MEAL, AFTER PLAYTIME, IMMEDIATELY AFTER WAKING UP FROM A NAP, AND JUST BEFORE BEDTIME. YOU MAY FIND YOURSELF TAKING YOUR PUPPY OUT EVERY HOUR OR TWO, THAT’S NORMAL!

HAVING A PUPPY IS DIFFICULT. THEY NEED TO GO TO THE BATHROOM A LOT.

IF YOUR PUPPY IS IN HIS CRATE, HE CAN PROBABLY GO FOR TWO OR FOUR HOURS BETWEEN POTTY TRIPS. YOUNG PUPPIES MAY NEED TO GO OUT A COUPLE OF TIMES DURING THE NIGHT. IF YOU HEAR YOUR PUPPY STIRRING IN HIS CRATE, YOU PROBABLY NEED TO TAKE HIM OUT, ALTHOUGH HE SHOULD SLEEP THROUGH THE NIGHT BY THE TIME HE’S 3 OR 4 MONTHS OLD.

REMEMBER THAT EXCITEMENT AND STRESS ARE POTTY TRIGGERS. THE TIMES THEY MOST OFTEN SEE ACCIDENTS FROM THEIR PUPPIES ARE DURING VERY ACTIVE PLAY. IT MAY SEEM AS THOUGH YOU JUST TOOK THE PUPPY MAY SEEM FIVE MINUTES AGO, BUT STAY VIGILANT AND TAKE HIM OUT EVERY FIVE TO 10 MINUTES DURING VIGOROUS PLAY. WE ALL KNOW THAT CRAZY TIME WHEN PUPPIES RUN AND PLAY LIKE MANIACS. I CALL IT HAPPY HOUR. WHEN HAPPY HOUSE COMES TO YOUR HOUSE, TAKE THAT PUP OUT EVERY FEW MINUTES TO AVOID ACCIDENTS.

IT’S ALSO IMPORTANT TO SEPARATE PLAYTIME AND POTTY TIME IN YOUR PUPPY’S MIND. TAKE HIM OUT TO DO ONE OR THE OTHER, NOT BOTH AT THE SAME TIME. HE NEEDS TO LEARN TO GET DOWN TO BUSINESS RIGHT AWAY WHEN IT’S POTTY TIME. ONE WAY YOU CAN FACILITATE THAT IS WITH SOME TREATS. AS SOON AS HE STARTS TO PEE OR POOP, SAY “GOOD POTTY” AND REWARD WITH A TREAT AFTER THEY’RE DONE. YOUR INTELLIGENT PUPPY WILL QUICKLY REALIZE THAT WHEN YOU HAVE A TREAT IN HAND AND TELL HIM TO GO PUTTY, A TREAT IS IMMINENT.

FEEDING MEALS ON A REGULAR SCHEDULE WILL ALSO HELP YOUR PUPPY REGULATE THE NEED TO ELIMINATE. GIVE MEALS AT SPECIFIC TIMES OF DAY RATHER THAN LEAVING FOOD OUT ALL THE TIME.

LIMITED RESPONSIBILITY

JUST AS WITH TEENAGERS, GIVING YOUNG PUPPY TOO MUCH FREEDOM TOO QUICKLY CAN LEAD TO ACCIDENTS. AND ONCE YOUR PUPPY IS IN THE HABIT OF ELIMINATING IN THE HOUSE, IT WILL BE MUCH MORE DIFFICULT TO TEACH HIM THAT HE NEEDS TO GO OUTSIDE, NOT INSIDE.

START BY GIVING HIM FREEDOM TO BE ON HIS OWN IN ONLY ONE SMALL ROOM OF YOUR HOUSE. THIS CAN BE A PUPPY PROOFED BATHROOM, KITCHEN OR LAUNDRY ROOM. ANYWHERE ELSE, HE SHOULD BE ATTACHED TO YOU BY A LEASH SO YOU ALWAYS KNOW WHERE HE IS AND WHAT HE’S DOING. AS HE GAINS IN RELIABILITY, YOU CAN GRADUALLY EXTEND THE AMOUNT OF FREEDOM HE HAS IN THE HOUSE. THE AGE AT WHICH YOU CAN DO THIS VARIES FROM PUPPY TO PUPPY.

THE OLDER THEY GET, THE LESS FREQUENTLY, THEY HAVE TO GO TO THE BATHROOM. PUPPIES ARE VERY RELIABLE AT 12 WEEKS. SOME OF THEM TAKE A LITTLE LONGER.

PUPPIES AREN’T COMPLETELY RELIABLE IN THE HOUSE UNTIL THEY’RE AT LEAST 1 YEAR OLD, IT’S RECOMMENDED AGAINST LEAVING THEM ALONE IN THE HOUSE DURING ADOLESCENCE.

RELIABLE HOUSETRAINING CAN OCCUR FOR SOME DOGS IN A FEW WEEKS OR MONTHS, BUT AT ADOLESCENCE, THINGS CAN CHANGE. CONTINUE TO SUPERVISE YOUR PUPPY UNTIL HE’S 1 YEAR OLD. YOU MAY FIND THAT AS HE GETS OLDER, YOU CAN TRUST HIM IN MORE AREAS OF THE HOUSE FOR LONGER PERIODS AND YOUR SUPERVISION WILL BE LESS AND LESS INTENSE.

COMMUNICATE

YOUR PUPPY MIGHT NOT BE ABLE TO SPEAK TO YOU, BUT THERE ARE WAYS HE CAN LET YOU KNOW THAT HE NEEDS TO GO OUT. THE FIRST IS BODY LANGUAGE. WATCH YOUR PUPPY CLOSELY TO SEE WHAT HE DOES PRIOR TO PEEING OR POOPING. SOME DOGS HAVE VERY OBVIOUS BODY LANGUAGE, SNIFFING AND CIRCLING. THE INSTANT YOU SEE THIS, TAKE YOUR DOG OUT. OTHER DOGS MAY PAW AT YOU, DON’T JUST BRUSH THEM OFF, THINKING THEY WANT ATTENTION, TAKE THEM OUT. SOME DOGS SIT IN FRONT OF THE DOOR AND BARK; OTHER JUST SIT IN FRONT OF THE DOOR.

IF YOUR PUPPY IS A DOOR SITTER (OR EVEN IF HE’S NOT),

HELP HIM OUT BY HANGING BELLS ON THE DOOR KNOB. WHENEVER YOU TAKE HIM OUT TO POTTY, THE BELLS WILL RING AS YOU OPEN THE DOOR, SETTING THE STAGE FOR WHAT PSYCHOLOGISTS CALL A CONDITIONED RESPONSE. YOUR PUPPY WILL BEGIN TO ASSOCIATE THE SOUND OF THE BELLS WITH GOING OUTSIDE AND LEARN TO JINGLE THEM HIMSELF WHEN HE NEEDS TO GO OUTSIDE.

OPEN-DOOR POLICY

INSTALLING A DOG DOOR AND TEACHING YOUR PUP HOW TO USE IT WILL ALSO AID IN HOUSETRAINING. ONCE HE KNOWS THAT OUTSIDE IN THE PLACE TO GO AND THAT HE CAN USE THE DOG DOOR TO GET THERE, HE’LL BE ABLE TO GO OUT ON HIS OWN WHENEVER HE NEEDS TO.

USE THE SAME TECHNIQUES OF POSITIVE REINFORCEMENT REGARDING USE OF THE DOG DOOR AS YOU DO FOR POTTYING OUTSIDE. EVERY TIME HE GOES THROUGH THE DOOR, ACT LIKE IT’S THE SMARTEST THING THE PUP’S EVER DONE. PRAISE AND TREATS BOTH WORK WELL. PRAISE AND TREAT EVERYTIME YOU PUPPY USES THE DOG DOOR.

ACCIDENTS HAPPEN

NO MATTER HOW CAREFUL YOU ARE, YOUR PUPPY WILL PROBABLY HAVE AN ACCIDENT IN THE HOUSE AT SOME POINT. WHAT SHOULD YOU DO? WE’LL FORGET THE OLD RUB HIS NOSE IN IT AND YELL AT HIM. TECHNIQUE. IT’S OLD-FASHIONED, MEAN AND JUST DOESN’T WORK. YOUR PUPPY HAS NO IDEA WHY YOU’RE YELLING AT HIM FOR WHAT IS, AFTER ALL, A NATURAL ACT.

FIRST, PRECLUDE ACCIDENTS BY GIVING LOTS OF PRAISE WHEN YOUR PUPPY POTTIES OUTDOORS. THAT’S THE ONLY WAY HE’LL KNOW THAT YOU LIKE WHAT HE DID. TO DO THIS, OF COARSE, YOU NEED TO GO OUTSIDE WITH HIM SO THAT YOU’RE RIGHT THERE TO PRAISE HIM WHEN HE PERFORMS. JUMP UP AND DOWN, CLAP, TELL HIM “GOOD POTTY!” NO SENDING HIM OUT IN THE YARD AND JUST ASSUMING HE PEED OR POOPED. THOSE ARE THE TIMES THAT HE COMES BACK IN AND POTTIES IN THE HOUSE BECAUSE HE SPENT ALL HIS TIME OUTSIDE SNIFFING OR PLAYING.

IF YOU CATCH HIM IN THE ACT OF POTTYING IN THE HOUSE, CREATE A DIVERSION BY CLAPPING YOUR HANDS OR MAKING A LOUD GRUTTURAL SOUNDS (AAAAGHT!) THEN HUSTLE HIM OUTDOORS TO FINISH. ANY TIME YOUR PUPPY HAS AN ACCIDENT IN THE HOUSE, THE MOST APPROPRIATE PUNISHMENT IS TO ROLL UP A NEWSPAPER AND HIT YOURSELF OVER THE HEAD WITH IT FOR NOT WATCHING HIM CLOSELY ENOUGH!

CLEANING SOLUTIONS

THERE’S AN ART TO CLEANING UP PUPPY PEE AND POOP. IF YOU DO IT RIGHT, YOUR CARPET CAN SURVIVE THE TRIALS OF PUPPYHOOD WITH NO LASTING STAINS OR ODORS. YOU’LL WANT TO HAVE A GOOD SUPPLY OF TOWELS, AN ENZYMATIC CLEANSER CONTAINING MICROORGANISMS THAT “EAT” ODOR-CAUSING PROTEINS AND A PLASTIC BUCKET TO HOLD SOILED TOWELS UNTIL YOU CAN LAUNDER THEM.

HERE ARE SOME TIPS ON TECHNIQUE.

CLEAN THE ACCIDENT IMMEDIATELY. IF YOU’RE SUPERVISING YOUR PUPPY CLOSELY -- ALTHOUGH NOT CLOSELY ENOUGH -- THIS SHOULDN’T BE A PROBLEM.

FOR URINE, SOAK IT UP AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE WITH A TOWEL. THEN APPLY THE CLEANSER TO THE WE SPOT, FOLLOWING THE DIRECTIONS ON THE BOTTLE. IF YOU’RE OUT OF CLEANER, YOU CAN USE CLUB SODA OT A 50/50 MIXTURE OF WHITE VINEGAR AND WATER. BLOT UP THE LIQUID AGAIN WITH A CLEAN TOWEL. PLACE A CLEAN DRY TOWEL OVER THE SPOT AND WEIGH IT DOWN WITH BOOKS OR SOME OTHER HEAVY ITEM. THIS HELPS THE TOWEL ABSORB ANY REMAINING MOISTURE.

FOR FECES, REMOVE AS MUCH FECAL MATERIAL AS POSSIBLE WITHOUT RUBBING IT INTO THE CARPET. YOU CAN USE A TOWEL OR A PLASTIC BAG TO PICK IT UP, THEN FLUSH IT OR DEPOSIT IT IN YOUR GARBAGE CAN, IF THE WASTE IS LOOSE YOU CAN APPLY A TYPE OF PRODUCT THAT WILL “FREEZE” OR STIFFEN IT, MAKING IT EASIER TO PICK UP. YOU CAN ALSO USE A WET.DRY VAC TO MAKE SURE YOU GET IT ALL UP. APPLY CLEANER AS DESCRIBED ABOVE.

MOST PRODUCTS MADE FOR PET CLEANUP ARE SAFE, BUT BEFORE YOU USE ANY CLEANER TEST IT ON AN INCONSPICUOUS AREA OF YOUR CARPET TO MAKE SURE IT DOESN’T DISCOLOR IT. DO THIS BEFORE YOU NEED TO USE THE PRODUCT SO THERE’S NO DELAY IN CLEANING UP THE MESS.

IF YOU THINK YOUR PUPPY HAD AN ACCIDENT IN THE HOUSE BUT YOU DIDN’T FIND IT IN TIME AND DON’T KNOW WHERE IT IS, PURCHASE A BATTERY-POWERED BLACK-LIGHT FLASHLIGHT. THE ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT WILL EXPOSE ANY STAINS THAT NEED TO BE TREATED.

THE EASIEST WAY TO CLEAN UP PUPPY MESSES? WELL, THAT INVOLVES REPLACING YOUR CARPET WITH TILE OR LAMINATE FLOORING. BUT IF THAT’S NOT ON YOUR AGENDA, THESE TIPS SHOULD KEEP YOUR HOME AND CARPET SMELLING FRESH!

DETER LEG LIFTING

MALE PUPPIES DON’T START LIFTING THEIR LEGS TO MARK TERRITORY UNTIL THEY BECOME ADOLESCENTS AT 10 OR 11 MONTHS OF AGE. BY THIS TIME, YOUR PUPPY SHOULD BE WELL ALONG IN HIS HOUSETRAINING, ENOUGH TO LEARN THIS ADVANCED LESSON IN CANINE MANNERS.

MAKING SURE THAT YOUR HOME IS FREE OR ODORS FROM OTHER DOGS -- ESPECIALLY OTHER MALES -- IS ESSENTIAL. YOU DON’T WANT YOUR TEEN MALE TO HAVE ANY EXCUSE TO LIFT HIS LEG IN THE HOUSE, MAKE YOUR DISPLEASURE KNOWN, LOUD AND CLEAR. THERE SHOULD BE NO DOUBT IN YOUR PUPPY'S MIND THAT MARKING INDOORS IS NEVER, EVER ACCEPTABLE.

IT’S A GOOD IDEA TO DISCOURAGE MAKING BEHAVIOR OUTDOORS AS WELL. THERE’S NOTHING WRONG WITH ALLOWING IT HERE AND THERE, BUT EXCESSIVE MARKING CAN BE A SIGN OF TROUBLE TO COME.

I DISCOURAGE MARKING BEHAVIOR AS SOON AS I SEE IT HAPPENING. THAT MEANS THAT DURING WALKS DON’T ALLOW YOUR DOG TO SNIFF AROUND AND MARK OVER EVERY SCENT THAT HE CHOOSES. EXCESSIVE MARKING BEHAVIOR CAN BE AN INDICATION OF A PROBLEM OF LEADERSHIP WITHIN THE HOUSEHOLD. IF YOU’RE STRUGGLING TO CORRECT THIS PROBLEM, CONSIDER SEEKING THE ADVICE OF A TRAINER OR BEHAVIORIST -- SOONER RATHER THAN LATER.

THERE’S NO DOUBT THAT HOUSETRAINING TAKES TIME AND EFFORT, BUT IF YOU DO IT CORRECTLY, THE PAYOFF CAN COME QUICKLY. WITH CONSISTENCY AND VIGILANCE, YOUR PUPPY WILL SOON BE THE HOUSETRAINED DOG OF YOUR DREAMS!