SOCIALIZING
EXPOSE YOUR PUPPY TO PEOPLE, PLACES AND THINGS THROUGH SOCIALIZATION FOR A CONFIDENT AND WELL-MANNERED ADULT.
AT 12 WEEKS OF AGE AND WELL PAST SEVERAL CRITICAL SOCIALIZATION PERIODS, DUCHESSE HAD NEVER BEEN ANYWHERE OTHER THAN THE GARAGE -- THE PLACE WHERE SHE WAS BORN. “SHE WAS VERY ANTISOCIAL (TO PEOPLE) BECAUSE NO ONE HAD GIVEN HER TWO HOOTS OF ATTENTION.” FORTUNATELY FOR DUCHESSE, SHE DIDN’T WIND UP AS ANOTHER SAD SHELTER STATISTIC AS IS SO OFTEN THE CASE WITH UNSOCIALIZED DOGS. ALTMAN TOOK THE PUP HOME DETERMINED TO TURN THE LITTLE GSD’S LIFE AROUND. “I WORKED REALLY, REALLY, HARD, “ALTMAN RELATES. SHE MADE A LOT OF HEADWAY WITH DUCHESSE,A DN THOUGH THE DOG WAS A LOVING FAMILY MEMBER (AND EXCELLED IN OBEDIENCE), SHE WAS NEVER COMPLETELY ABLE TO OVERCOME HER EARLY LACK OF POSITIVE HUMAN CONTACT. “DUCHESSE LEARNED THAT WHILE SHE DIDN’T ENJOY ATTENTION FROM PEOPLE OTHER THAN FAMILY, SHE COULD TOLERATE AND ACCEPT ATTENTION FROM STRANGERS, “SHE SAYS. IF DUCHESSE HAD RECEIVED EARLY INTERVENTION IN HER SOCIALIZATION SKILLS, SHE MAY HAVE DEVELOPED INTO A MUCH MORE CONFIDENT DOG. THE ENVIRONMENT IN WHICH A PUPPY IS RAISED HAS A STRONG INFLUENCE ON THE PUP’S ADULT TEMPERAMENT. THAT’S NOT TO SAY, HOWEVER, THAT ENVIRONMENT -- OR THE EXPERIENCES AND TRAINING A PUPPY RECEIVES -- CAN OUTWEIGH THE GENETICS A PUPPY HAS INHERITED. GENETICS PLAY A HUGE ROLE IN A PUPPY’S TEMPERAMENT POTENTIAL -- AS MUCH AS 60 PERCENT, ACCORDING TO SOME RESEARCHERS. WHETHER A PUPPY REACHES HIS FULL GENETIC POTENTIAL (I.E. AS AN OUTGOING, CONFIDENT DOG, OR AS AN EXTREMELY TIMID AND FEARFUL DOG), LARGELY DEPENDS ON THE EXPERIENCES OR ENVIRONMENT IN WHICH THE PUPPY IS RAISED. IF A PUPPY IS GENETICALLY PREWIRED TO BE TIMID, HE COULD DEVELOP INTO A LESS FEARFUL OR MAYBE EVEN A FRIENDLY DOG -- IF GIVEN THE RIGHT EXPERIENCES WITH PEOPLE (AND DOGS). LIKEWISE, IT IS POSSIBLE THAT GIVEN THE WRONG LIFE EXPERIENCES, A GENETICALLY BOLD AND CONFIDENT PUPPY COULD BECOME A FEARFUL ADULT. LIFE EXPERIENCES -- POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE -- IMPACTS A DOGS TEMPERAMENT. ARMED WITH TODAY;S SCIENTIFIC AND PRACTICAL KNOWLEDGE, HOWEVER EVERY DOG OWNER HAS THE ABILITY TO HELP THEIR PUPPY DEVELOP INTO THE MOST FRIENDLY CONFIDENT ADULT DOG POSSIBLE. EARLY SOCIALIZATION THAT IS POSITIVE AND COMFORTABLE FOR THE PUPPY IS KEY TO BRINGING OUT THE BEST IN EVERY DOG’S GENETICS. CRITICAL PERIODS RESEARCH INDICATES THAT A DOG’S SOCIALIZATION WITH PEOPLE AND DOGS BEGINS SOON AFTER BIRTH. A PUPPY’S OTHER AND LITTERMATES PROVIDE KEY EARLY EXPERIENCES WITH DOGS (BITE INHIBITION IS A HUGE LESSON FOR THE YOUNG PUPPIES). A PUPPY’S BREEDER IS CRITICAL IN PROVIDING POSITIVE, EARLY EXPERIENCES WITH HUMANS DURING THE AGES 3 TO 7 WEEKS. A KNOWLEDGEABLE BREEDER HANDLES THE PUPPIES EXTENSIVELY AND INTRODUCES THEM TO A WIDE VARIETY OF PEOPLE -- ALL AGES ND ETHNICITIES. AS MANY FRIENDLY PEOPLE AS A BREEDER CAN BRING INTO THE HOME (REMOVING SHOES, OF COURSE, TO LIMIT POSSIBLE EXPOSURE TO VIRUSES), THE MORE POSITIVE EXPERIENCES THE PUPPY WILL HAVE TO REMEMBER THROUGHOUT HIS LIFE. 7-WEEK MILESTONE: COMMANDS, OF COURSE, AREN’T ALL THE PUPPY IS LEARNING AT THIS STAGE. THE PUPPY IS LEARNING AT THIS STAGE. THE PUPPY IS PARTICULARLY IMPRESSIONABLE FROM THIS TIME THROUGH 12 WEEKS OF AGE AND LEARNS FROM GOOD AND BAD EXPERIENCES. 8-WEEK WARNING: APPROXIMATELY AT THE 8-WEEK POINT -- AND THE AGE AT WHICH MANY PEOPLE BRING THEIR PUPPIES HOME -- PUPPIES ARE BELIEVED TO UNDERGO A FEAR-IMPRINTING STAGE. “DURING THIS TIME, IT WON’T TAKE NUT A BENIGN SET OF CIRCUMSTANCES TO FOREVER LEAVE AN IMPRINT ON THE PUPPY, SAYS ALTMAN, WHO HAD JUST THIS INCIDENT HAPPEN TO TWO OF HER PUPPIES. “I BROUGHT THE PUPPIES TO A TRAINING RING -- A BENIGN LOOK -- FROM CLOSE PROXIMITY AND NOT AT ALL UNFRIENDLY, BUT THE PUPS DID NOT KNOW THIS DOG AND THEY WERE FRIGHTENED AND STARTED (YELPING). THOUGH THE TWO MALES WENT ON TO FINISH AMERICAN AND CANADIAN CHAMPIONSHIPS, “THEY NEVER TOTALLY GOT OVER THAT EXPERIENCE,” Altman SAYS, RELATING THAT THE TWO ADULTS REMAINED A BIT SUSPICIOUS OF OTHER DOGS. 9-WEEK CORNER: AT 9 WEEKS, THE PUPPIES TURN THE CORNER AND ARE READY TO DO LOTS OF THINGS,” ALTMAN SAYS, “THEY’RE READY TO GO OUT AND MEET THE WORLD” AND PUPPIES NEED TO GO OUT AND EXPERIENCE NEW PEOPLE, PLACES AND THINGS, BECAUSE ANOTHER BEHAVIORAL MARKER IS RAPIDLY APPROACHING: THE 12-WEEK POINT. UP UNTIL THE 3 MONTH MARK, RESEARCH INDICATES THAT PUPPIES ARE OPEN TO NEW EXPERIENCES AND , EXCEPT FOR THE ONE FEAR IMPRINTING PERIOD, ARE RECEPTIVE TO POSITIVE INTERACTIONS WITH PEOPLE AND DOGS, AS WELL AS NEW SIGHTS AND SOUNDS. IT’S AFTER THE 12-WEEK POINT THAT NEW EXPERIENCES MAY BE MET WITH INCREASING CAUTION. THE SOCIALIZATION “WINDOW” CONTINUES TO CLOSE AND, ACCORDING TO SOME EXPERTS, BY THE AGE OF 18 WEEKS, THE SUM OD THE PUPPY’S EXPERIENCES TO THAT POINT PRETTY MUCH SHAPES THE ADULT DOG. DOES THIS MEAN THAT IF YOUR PUPPY IS STILL A BIT TIMID AT THE AGE OF 4 ½ MONTHS THAT THERE’S NO HOPE FOR HIM? OR CONVERSELY, IF YOU HAVE AN OUTGOING, FRIENDLY PUPPY THAT YOU DON’T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT CONTINUING TO SOCIALIZE THE PUPPY? NO AND NO. SOCIALIZATION IS A LIFELONG PROCESS. PROGRESS CAN CONTINUE TO BE MADE THROUGHOUT A DOG’S LIFETIME, JUST AS A DOG CAN SLIP OR REVERT TO MORE FEARFUL BEHAVIORS IF HE IS NOT CONSTANTLY PROVIDED WITH POSITIVE EXPERIENCES. ON GUARD! PEOPLE OFTEN PURCHASE BIG DOGS LIKE GERMAN SHEPHERDS FOR THEIR KEEN WATCHDOG ABILITIES; ALERTING FAMILY MEMBERS TO THE PRESENCE OF DANGER. THE PROBLEM IS THAT MANY OWNERS THINK THAT ENCOURAGING THE DOG TO BARK AND LUNGE AT THE FRONT DOOR AND THE FENCE LINE WILL MAKE A MORE PROTECTIVE DOG. BIG MISTAKE. THE BEST WATCHDOG IS ONE WHO IS WELL-SOCIALIZED, SAYS GINNY ALTMAN OF SHOREVIEW, MINNESOTA. THE REASON GSD CAN RECOGNIZE FRIEND FORM FOE; AN UNSOCIALIZED GSD CAN’T, SHE EXPLAINS. IF YOUR GRANDMOTHER RINGS THE BELL, THE DOG WHO ISN’T PEOPLE FRIENDLY WILL ALERT IN THE SAME MANNER AS WHEN A SHIFTY CHARACTER IS LURKING IN YOUR HEDGE. “EVERYONE IS SUSPECT,” ALTMAN SAYS. ADDITIONALLY, IF YOUR DOG IS ANTISOCIAL, YOU’LL NEED TO CRATE HER WHEN FRIENDS COME OVER BECAUSE YOUR GSD WILL NOT TOLERATE ANY VISITORS. SO, IF YOU WANT AN ACCURATE ALARM SYSTEM, BUY A MECHANIZED ONE AND HAVE IT INSTALLED. IF YOU WANT A GREAT DOG WHO WILL ALERT YOU TO SOMEONE STRANGE COMING ON YOUR PROPERTY, TAKE THE TIME TO TEACH YOUR GSD THAT PEOPLE ARE GENERALLY GOOD AND COME BEARING TREATS. REST ASSURED THAT THE WELL-SOCIALIZED DOG -- AND ONLY THE WELL-SOCIALIZED DOG -- WILL EASILY BE ABLE TO READ A PERSON’S BAD INTENTIONS, AND THE DOG WILL ALERT YOU. SOCIALIZING THE YOUNG PUPPY SO, WHERE AND WHEN DO YOU START SOCIALIZATION? MANY (NEW PUPPY OWNERS) RECEIVE MISGUIDED ADVICE FROM THEIR VETERINARIANS NOT TO TAKE THEIR PUPPIES OUT OF THE HOME UNTIL THE PUPPY HAS RECEIVED ALL OR MOST OF HIS SHOTS. YOU STILL NEED TO TAKE YOUR PUPPY OUTSIDE THE HOUSE, BUT JUST BE CAREFUL, DON’T LET HIM DRINK OUT OF ANOTHER DISH ANOTHER DOG HAS DRANK OUT OF, TAKE THEM TO PLACES THAT HAVE MANY DIFFERENT TYPES OF PEOPLE DURING THIS TIME. WHEN THEY’VE GOTTEN MOST OF THEIR SHOTS THEN YOU CAN CONCENTRATE ON GETTING THEM TO KNOW NEW DOGS AND DIFFERENT ANIMALS. I ALWAYS LOVE TO TAKE THEM TO A COUNTY FAIR WHERE THEY HEAR, SMELL, AND MEET ALL KINDS OF DIFFERENT ANIMALS. GROWING PROFESSIONALS BELIEVES “BEHAVIORAL ILLNESS” (LACK OF SOCIALIZATION AND BASIC MANNERS) KILLS MORE DOGS (EUTHANIZED AT THE SHELTER) THAN DISTEMPER, PARVOVIRUS, OR BORDETELLA (KENNEL COUGH) AND THAT PUPPIES CAN BEGIN CLASS AS EARLY AS 7 TO 8 WEEKS IF THEY HAVE RECEIVED A MINIMUM OF ONE VACCINATION ADMINISTERED AT LEAST 10 DAYS BEFORE CLASS BEGINS. “THE BENEFIT OF A YOUNG PUPPY CLASS IS THAT YOU CAN CONTINUE TO SOCIALIZE YOU PUPPY WITH DOGS THAT YOU KNOW ARE FRIENDLY. A GOOD INSTRUCTOR WILL SINGLE OUT THOSE PUPPIES WITH POOR INTERACTIONS. IN ADDITION TO HELPING WITH DOG-ON-DOG INTERACTIONS, WORKING WITH EXPERIENCED :DOG PEOPLE” AT A TRAINING SCHOOL MAKES IT THAT MUCH EASIER TO ENSURE THAT YOUR PUPPY IS PROPERLY APPROACHED AND RECEIVES THE MOST POSITIVE “PEOPLE” EXPERIENCES POSSIBLE, TOO. OF COURSE, MOST PEOPLE (AWAY FROM THE TRAINING CENTER) THAT YOU WILL BE INTRODUCING YOU PUPPY TO WILL NOT BE EXPERIENCED DOG PEOPLE. WHAT’S THE BEST WAY TO MAKE SURE EVERY CONTACT YOU PUPPY HAS WITH PEOPLE IS A FRIENDLY AND WELCOMING EXPERIENCE? IT’S INCREDIBLY IMPORTANT THAT YOU CONTROL THE SITUATION. IF A YOUNG PUPPY HAS A BAD EXPERIENCE, IT’S ORE LIKELY TO STICK WITH HIM (FOR LIFE) THAN WHEN THE PUPPY IS OLDER. FIVE TIPS:
AFTER THE CUTE GERMAN SHEPHERD PUPPY, LATER TO BE NAMED DUCHESSE, PEEKED AT HER VISITORS FROM A HIDING SPOT IN THE NEIGHBOR’S GARAGE, THERE WASN’T ANY WAY SHE WASN’T COMING HOME WITH GINNY ALTMAN OF SHOREVIEW, MINNESOTA. IN RETROSPECT, OF COURSE: “IF I KNEW BACK THEN WHAT I KNOW NOW, IT WOULD HAVE BEEN OBVIOUS TO ME THAT THIS PUPPY HAD A SERIOUS LACK OF SOCIALIZATION.
RECENT STUDIES INDICATE THAT AT 7 WEEKS OF AGE, “THE ADULT NUMBER OF CELLS IN THE BRAIN (ARE PRESENT) AND THE DOG’S NERVOUS SYSTEM IS READY TO BE DEVELOPED, EXPLAINS ALTMAN. SHE RELATES THAT THE IMPORTANCE OF A DEVELOPED BRAIN AND NERVOUS SYSTEM IS THAT NOW “THE PUPPY IS READY TO LEARN, AND HE LEARNS READILY.” SIT, DOWN AND COME ARE ALL COMMANDS THAT CAN BE TAUGHT EASILY AT THIS POINT.
DOG MEET DOG
DOGS ARE GENERALLY QUITE FRIENDLY WITH OTHER DOGS -- IF THEY’VE HAD GOOD EXPERIENCES WITH OTHER DOGS GROWING UP. HERE ARE FIVE WAYS YOU CAN KEEP DOG-DOG EXPERIENCES POSITIVE AND FUN FOR YOUR DOG.
1. ALLOW YOUR DOG TO PLAY ONLY WITH KNOWN, FRIENDLY DOGS.
2. IF YOU HAVE A PUPPY, MAKE SURE THE OTHER PUPPIES HAVE AT LEAST ONE OR TWO PUPPY VACCINATIONS AND ANY FRIENDLY, GENTLE ADULT DOGS ARE FULLY VACCINATED.
3. WATCH PLAY CAREFULLY, YOU NOW YOUR DOG; IF AT ANY TIME YOUR PUPPY OR DOG IS BECOMING UNCOMFORTABLE OR PLAY IS GOING OVER THE TOP, SEPARATE THE DOGS.
4. TRUST YOUR COMFORT LEVEL. DON’T BE BULLIED BY OTHER OWNERS TO “LET THE DOGS PLAY” OR ALLOW THEM TO TELL YOU, “OH, THAT’S NORMAL BEHAVIOR.” IF YOU’RE UNCOMFORTABLE WITH THE WAY THE DOGS ARE PLAYING, SEPARATE THEM IMMEDIATELY.
5. AVOID DOG PARKS. UNLESS YOU ARE GOING TO THE PARK WITH FRIENDS AND KNOWN FRIENDLY DOGS AND JUST NEED A FENCED AREA TO PLAY, DON’T SUBJECT YOUR PUPPY OR ADULT DOG TO A BAD EXPERIENCE.
PROPER INTRODUCTIONS
SO HOW DO YOU CONTROL THE SITUATION? FIRST, IT’S REALLY IMPORTANT TO RECOGNIZE WHEN YOUR DOG WHETHER A PUPPY OR AN ADULT -- IS BECOMING UNCOMFORTABLE WITH A SITUATION. MOST PEOPLE CAN EASILY RECOGNIZE THE BODY LANGUAGE OF A FRIENDLY DOG: LOOSE BODY, A WAGGING TAIL THAT’S ALSO LOOSE AND RELAXED, EARS UP AND NOT INTENSELY FORWARD BUT IN A MORE RELAXED POSITION. EVERYTHING ABOUT THE PUPPY OR ADULT SHOULD READ AS COMFORTABLE, FRIENDLY, AND HAPPY.
AN AGGRESSIVE DOG (THIS INCLUDES FEAR AGGRESSION) DISPLAYS COMPLETELY DIFFERENT SIGNALS; TAUT, STIFF, OT RIGID BODY; A TAIL THAT IS STILL OR WAGGING STIFFLY, HELP HIGH AT THE BASE; EARS PRICKED AND HELD VERY FAR FORWARD; AND AN INTENSE STARE. THE DOG MAY ALSO HAVE HIS HACKLES UP AND COULD BE GROWLING, SNARLING, BARKING, SAPPING AND/OR LUNGING.
FEARFUL BEHAVIOR IS MARKED BY THE DOG TRYING (INITIALLY) TO FLEE THE SCENE OR BECOME AS SMALL AS POSSIBLE, A FEARFUL DOG WILL OFTEN TUCK HIS TAIL BETWEEN HIS HIND LEGS, CURL HIS BODY SMALLER, HIDE BEHIND THE HANDLER’S LEGS, AND FLATTEN HIS EARS AGAINST HIS NECK. THE DOG MAY TRY TO LOOK AWAY ROM THE PERSON, OR BEGIN YAWNING. YOU MAY ALSO HEAR THE DOG WHIMPER, WHINE, OR CRY.
THE PROBLEM IS, IF A DOG IS DISPLAYING AGGRESSIVE OR FEARFUL BODY LANGUAGE, THE OWNER HAS ALREADY PASSED THE POINT OF TEACHING THE DOG A GOOD LESSON OR PROVIDING A POSITIVE EXPERIENCE. THE TRICK IS TI RECOGNIZING THE EARLIER BODY LANGUAGE THAT INDICATES THAT THE DOG IS TRANSITIONING FROM A POSITION OF FRIENDLINESS TO THAT OF DISCOMFORT. THE EASIEST WAY TO SPOT THIS? IT’S THE LACK OF FRIENDLY BEHAVIORS.
IF YOUR DOG GOES FRO BEING LOOSE BODIED AND REALIZED TO SUDDENLY STILL, YOU NEED TO IMMEDIATELY SIZE UP WHAT IS CAUSING THE CHANGE IN THE DOG’S DISCOMFORT LEVEL. IS IT AN APPROACHING STRANGER? IS IT SOMEONE ZOOMING BY ON ROLLERBLADES?
WHATEVER YOU DO, “DON’T PUSH YOUR DOG.” OWNERS FREQUENTLY MAKE THE MISTAKE OF FORCING A DOG TO MEET THE SOURCE OF HIS DISCOMFORT. THIS ONLY MAKES THE SITUATION WORSE. IF A DOG FEELS HE CAN’T ESCAPE, HE MAY TRY TO MAKE SPACE--EITHER BY TRYING TO RUN AWAY OR BY BARKING OR LUNGING AT THE “STRANGER.”
A BETTER ANSWER IS TO PREVENT THE SITUATION FROM ESCALATING BY CONTROLLING THE SITUATION. “KNOW YOUR DOG’S COMFORT BUBBLE.” IF THAT’S 3 FEET, THEN STOP STRANGERS AT 3 FEET AND A FEW INCHES AWAY FROM YOUR DOG. “GIVE THE PERSON A TREAT TO HOLD IN THEIR HAND. HAVE THEM OFFER THE TREAT (OPEN HANDED) TO THE DOG WITHOUT MAKING ANY EFFORT TO PET THE DOG.” AND MOST IMPORTANTLY ALLOW THE PUPPY OR DOG TO COME TO THE PERSON, NOT THE OTHER WAY.”
SOME PUPPIES AND ADULTS FIND AN ADULT WHO LEANS THEM (TO PET THE DOG) TO BE PARTICULARLY INTIMIDATING; ALTMAN RECOMMENDS THAT ADULTS KNEEL SO THEY’RE A LITTLE LESS FRIGHTENING EYE CONTACT CAN ALSO BE INTERPRETED BY A DOG TO BE AN AGGRESSIVE MOVE; SO IF YOU HAVE A DOG WHO TENDS TO BE LESS CONFIDENT, ASK PEOPLE NOT TO LOOK THE DOG IN THE EYE.)
“TO BE ON THE SAFE SIDE, START OFF BY INTRODUCING YOUR DOG TO PEOPLE YOU KNOW. BEGIN WITH FAMILY, FRIENDS AND NEIGHBORS. GO TO THE VETERINARIAN’S OFFICE AND LET PEOPLE MAKE A BIG DEAL OVER THE DOG.”
WITH CHILDREN, BEGINNING WITH OLDER CHILDREN. ASK THE CHILD TO STAND STILL, SHOW THEM HOW TO HOLD THE TREAT IN THEIR OPEN HAND AND HOW TO GIVE THE TREAT SO THE DOG CAN LICK IT OUT OF THEIR HANDS.
NEVER ALLOW A CHILD TO HUG A DOG, AND KEEP INTRODUCTIONS TO ONE CHILD AT A TIME. ONCE YOU’VE GOT YOUR DOG MEETING AND GREETING PEOPLE COMFORTABLY, YOU CAN EXPAND HIS HORIZONS. WALKS AROUND THE NEIGHBORHOOD ARE GREAT PLACES TO MEET PEOPLE, AS WELL AS OUTDOOR CAFES, STORES THAT ALLOW DOGS (E.G. PET-SUPPLY STORES, HARDWARE STORES), YOUTH SPORTING EVENTS AND PARKS.
IF YOUR DOG IS UNCERTAIN ABOUT A PARTICULAR SITUATION (SUCH AS A SOCCER GAME AND CHEERING PARENTS), ALLOW HIM TO WATCH FROM A DISTANCE. TAKE YOUR CUES AS TO WHETHER YOU CAN MOVE YOUR DOG CLOSER BY YOUR DOG’S BODY LANGUAGE.
UNCOMFORTABLE SITUATIONS
IF YOUR DOG IS UNSURE OF AN APPROACHING PERSON, STEP BETWEEN YOUR DOG AND THE PERSON AND CONTINUE WALKING. YOU CAN DISTRACT YOUR DOG BY DOING A LITTLE OBEDIENCE SESSION, SUCH AS A QUICK SERIES OF SIT, DOWN, SIT AND UP (A LITTLE JUMP UP FOR A TREAT). CONTINUE WORKING WITH YOUR DOG UNTIL HE NO LONGER SHOWS SIGNS OF BEING UNCOMFORTABLE.
WHATEVER YOU DO, DON’T TIGHTEN UP ON THAT LEASH! “A TIGHT LEASH IS AN INSTANT CUE TO THE DOG THAT SOMETHING IS WRONG,” IF THE LEASH IS TIGHT, THE DOG WILL START LOOKING FOR A CHANGE -- ANY CHANGE -- IN HIS ENVIRONMENT AND MAY RESPOND WITH A FEARFUL OR AGGRESSIVE RESPONSE. “KEEP ENOUGH SLACK IN THE LEASH THAT YOU DON’T FEEL LIKE THERE IS A DOG NEXT TO YOU.” THIS DOESN’T MEAN THAT YOU SHOULD GIVE YOUR DOG 6 FEET OF LEASH . THE DOG SHOULD BE BESIDE YOU BUT WITH SLACK IN THE LEASH.
IF AT ANY TIME YOU FEEL EVEN THE SLIGHTEST BIT UNCOMFORTABLE SOCIALIZING YOUR PUPPY OR DOG, OR YOU’RE SIMPLY UNSURE WHAT YOUR DOG IS DOING, SEEK PROFESSIONAL HELP. A PROFESSIONAL TRAINER CAN SEE SOMETHING SECONDS BEFORE IT OCCURS. A TRAINER CAN HELP YOU IRON OUT SOME ISSUES BEFORE THEY BECOME SERIOUS PROBLEMS, AS WELL AS REASSURE YOU IF A PROBLEM REALLY ISN’T SUCH A BIG ISSUE AND PERHAPS IS A NORMAL DOG BEHAVIOR THAT JUST NEEDS A LITTLE GUIDANCE.
REMEMBER, SOCIALIZATION IS NOT JUST FOR PUPPIES. SOCIALIZATION IS AN ONGOING PROCESS, AND SHOULD CONTINUE THROUGHOUT YOUR DOG’S LIFE.
IF YOU WORK WITH DEDICATION ON YOUR S SOCIALIZATION SKILLS, ODDS ARE YOU WON’T JUST HAVE A NICE DOG, YOU’LL HAVE A GREA DOG -- ONE WHO CAN BE TAKEN ANYWHERE WITH CONFIDENCE, A DOG OWNER COULDN’T ASK FOR A MORE TERRIFIC BREED AMBASSADOR THAN A SOCIAL, CONFORTABLE DOG.