TAPING EARS

TRAINING THE EARS TO STAND UP

THE AMERICAN CHINESE CRESTED STANDARD REQUIRES THAT THE VARIETIES, THE POWDERPUFF AND THE HAIRLESS HAVE ERECT EARS. IN EUROPE, CANADA AND SOME OTHER COUNTRIES, THE STANDARD IS MORE FORGIVING IN REGARDS TO THE EARS OF THE POWDERPUFF, BUT NOT TO THE EARS OF THE HAIRLESS. YET NOT EVERY CHINESE CRESTED IS BORN WITH ERECT EARS. IN MANY CASES, THE EARS HAVE TO BE TRAINED TO STAND. THE EAR-TRAINING ROUTINE SHOULD BEGIN WHEN THE PUPPY IS STILL VERY YOUNG AND THE EAR CARTILAGE IS INTACT, BECAUSE ONCE IT BREAKS FROM REPEATED CREASING AND FOLDING, IT MAY BE IMPOSSIBLE TO CORRECT THE PROBLEM. THIS MAY NOT BE AN ISSUE FOR THE PET CHINESE CRESTED, BUT FOR A SHOW-PROSPECT PUPPY IT MEANS A CAREER THAT IS FINISHED BEFORE IT EVEN STARTED. THE SIMPLEST WAY TO TAIN EARS TO STAND IS TO TAKE THEM WITH COTTON TAPE. 1 INCH (2.5CM) WIDE, IS PREFERRED BECAUSE IT ALLOWS FOR AIR CIRCULATION. TWO PIECES OFF TAPE ARE CUT, EACH ABOUT 4 INCHES (10CM) LONG. THE EARS ARE STRECHED UP AND TAPED FLAT ACROSS, BACK AND FRONT.

ANOTHER METHOD CONSISTS OF WRAPPING THE EARS. COTTON BATTING IS ROLLED INTO A ROD ABOUT ½ INCH (8MM) WIDE AND SLIGHTLY SHORTER THAN THE LENGTH OF THE EAR. TAMPONS MAKE GREAT RODS, AS DO POPSICLE STICKS, TONGUE DEPRESSORS, OR FOAM POSTS. THE RODS ARE INSERTED INTO THE DOG’S EARS, AND THEN THE EARS ARE STRETCHED OUT AND CURLED AROUND THEM. NEXT, A 4 INCH (10CM) PIECE OF TAPE IS WRAPPED AROUND, STARTING FROM THE BOTTOM AND COMING AROUND THE EAR, MAKING SURE THAT THE EAR IS STRETCHED UP WELL. BOTH EARS MUST BE VERTICALLY STRAIGHT. TO FORM A BRIDGE, ANOTHER PIECE OF TAPE ABOUT 10 INCHES (25CM) LONG, IS NEEDED. THE BRIDGE IS MADE BY ATTACHING ONE END OF THE TAPE TO ONE EAR, EXTENDING THE TAPE OVER THE HEAD AND WRAPPING IT AROUND THE OTHER EAR, THEN COMING BACK TO THE FIRST EAR FOLDS ABOVE THE HEAD ARE LATER PINCHED, STICKY SIDE TO STICKY SIDE, THUS FORMING A BRIDGE, WHICH HOLDS BOTH EARS IN AN UPRIGHT POSITION.

THE TAPE SHOULD STAY ON THE EARS FOR THREE TO FOUR DAYS AND THEN BE TAKEN OFF TO PREVENT INFECTION. AFTER THE TAPE IS TAKEN OFF, THE EARS ARE LEFT TO REST FOR A DAY AND THE PROCEDURE SHOULD BE REPEATED THE NEXT DAY.

YOU WILL NEED TO REGULARLY CHECK THE EARS FOR ANY SIGNS OF INFLAMMATION. IF THE EARS BECOME RED OR SWOLLEN, YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE TAPE IMMEDIATELY, WASH THE EARS GENTLY WITH SOAPY WATER, DRY THE EARS GENTLY AND APPLY ANTIBIOTIC CREAM TO THE SURFACE. THE EAR WILL NEED TO REST FOR A WHILE UNTIL IT HEALS COMPLETELY. PRIOR TO RE-TAPING THE EAR, IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO SHAVE THE HAIR OFF THE EARS BEFORE EACH TAPING PROCEDURE, AS HAIR ON THE EARS ADD WEIGHT, MAKING THE TRAINING PROCESS LONGER IF NOT IMPOSSIBLE. ALSO, REMOVING HAIR FROM THE STICKY TAPE CAN BE VERY PAINFUL TO THE DOG. IF OTHER PUPPIES OR DOGS ARE TRYING TO CHEW ON THE TAPED EARS A GOOD TIP IS TO USE ARRID EXTRA DRY (GEL) AND PUT THAT ON THE EARS AFTER THEY'VE BEEN TAPED.  YOU CAN ALSO USE IT ON FURNITURE OR OTHER PLACES THAT YOUR PUPPY HAS DECIDED IS THEIR CHEW TOY.

IT IS NOT ADVISABLE TO USE NAIR OR OTHER HAIR REMOVERS, AS THE SKIN ON THE EAR IS VERY FRAGILE AND SENSITIVE, AND CAN EASILY BECOME INFLAMED FROM CHEMICALS PRESENT IN COMMERCIAL PREPARATIONS.

USING A WAHL (MY FAVORITE BRAND) HAND TRIMMER WITH THE #40 BLADE IS A BETTER OPTION, ALTHOUGH YOU STILL NEED TO BE CAREFUL NOT TO ACCIDENTLY CUT THE DELICATE EAR EDGE OR FOLDS WHERE THE EAR CONNECTS TO THE HEAD WHEN SHAVING. IF YOU ARE INEXPERIENCED WITH A TRIMMER, BE AWARE THAT THE BLADE IS SHARP, SO FIRST PRACTICE ON YOURSELF OR ON AN OLD PIECE OF FUR BEFORE TRYING TO TRIM YOUR DOG’S EARS. WHEN STARTING OUT INSTEAD OF GETTING ALL THE WAY DOWN TO THE SKIN I SUGGEST GOING WITH THE HAIR ON THE EARS TO GET IT SHORT ENOUGH WHILE GETTING USED TO THE PROCESS. I ALWAYS HOLD THE EARS WITH THE OTHER HAND AND GLIDE THE BLADE INTO MY FINGERS AROUND THE EDGES OF THE EARS TO MAKE SURE I DON’T ACCIDENTALLY CUT THE EDGE OF THE EARS. THEN AFTER YOU THINK YOU HAVE THE HAND OF IT AFTER A FEW WEEKS OF PRACTICE THEN YOU CAN SHAVE AGAINST THE HAIR TO GET ALL THE HAIR OFF DOWN TO THE SKIN. AFTER SHAVING THE EARS, WASH THEM WELL WITH SOAP, AS OILY SKIN OR PRESENCE OF HAIR DEBRIS WILL PREVENT PROPER STICKING OF THE TAPE. ONCE THE EARS ARE COMPLETELY DRY, YOU CAN APPLY THE ADHESIVE AS FIRST DESCRIBED.

ANOTHER POPULAR EAR-TRAINING METHOD CONSISTS OF MAKING A PAPER FORM AND ATTACHING IT WITH THE SKIN BOND TO THE EAR. THE PAPER FORM, SLIGHTLY SMALLER THAN THE SIZE OF THE EAR, IS CUT FROM A BROWN SHOPPING BAG. THE DOG’S EARS MUST BE THOROUGHLY CLEANED WITH RUBBING ALCOHOL OR THE FORM WILL NOT ADHERE PROPERLY. THE GLUE IS BRUSHED ON ONE SIDE OF THE FORM AND ON THE INSIDE OF THE DOG’AS EAR AND ALLOWED TO THICKEN FOR A FEW SECONDS FOR BETTER ADHERENCE. THE FORM IS NEXT PRESSED AGAINST THE EAR AND HELD IN POSITION UNTIL DRY. THE SAME IS DONE WITH THE OTHER EAR.

AFTER FOUR OR FIVE DAYS, THE FORM IS REMOVED, THE EARS ARE CLEANED WITH ALCOHOL, AND AFTER A SHORT REST, THE WHOLE PROCEDURE IS REPEATED. THE OWNER MUST BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO ALLOW THE GLUE OR ALCOHOL TO DRIP INTO THE EAR, BECAUSE THIS CAN INJURE THE EARDRUM.

THE RAPING MUST BE DONE CONSISTENTLY UNTIL THE EARS ARE STANDING. THIS SOMETIMES MEANS TAPING THE EARS FOR A YEAR OR LONGER. USUALLY IT’S NOT THAT LONG THE AVERAGE I’D SAY IS ABOUT THREE MONTHS. SOMETIMES THEY MAY LOOK LIKE THEY’RE STANDING BUT WHEN THE DOG GETS TIRED AT NIGHT THEY START TO FLOP OR AFTER A FEW DAYS THEY START TO FLOP. YOU’RE GETTING CLOSE BUT SHOULD STILL TAPE THEM AGAIN FOR A FEW MORE WEEKS.

IF, IN SPITE OF YOUR MOST DILIGENT EFFORTS, THE CRESTED’S EARS STILL WO’T STAND, THIS COULD BE DUE TO THE FOLLOWING CAUSES:

NOTHING CAN BE DONE IF THE CAUSE IS GENETIC. CARTILAGE DAMAGE IS USUALLY CAUSED BY PUPPIES TUGGING AND PULLING ON EACH OTHER EARS. BROKEN CARTILAGE IS THE MOST COMMON REASON AND, UNFORTUNATELY, OFTEN PERMANENT. SO ALSO CAREFUL ABOUT PETTING THE EARS WHEN PETTING THEIR HEAD AND MAKE SURE TO TELL OTHER FAMILY MEMBERS AND FRIENDS THAT PET YOUR PUPPY TO PLEASE STAY AWAY FROM PETTING THE EARS.

ANOTHER POSSIBILITY IS THAT THE PUPPY HASN’T MATURED ENOUGH. DURING THE TEETHING PERIOD, THE ORGANISMS; DEPENDENCY ON CALCIUM AND ZINC OFTEN EXCEEDS THE SUPPLY, AND FLOPPY EARS ARE A COMMON RESULT. IN THIS SITUATION, YOU NEED TO BE PATIENT. ONCE THE ADULT TEETH COME IN, THE PROBLEM SHOULD RESOLVE ITSELF. I ALSO GIVE PUPPIES A HARD BONE OR A NYLA BONE TO CHEW ON. THE STRONGER THE JAWS ARE THE STRONGER THE EARS GET.

SOME VETERINARIAN’S ADVICE ADDING A ZINC AND CALCIUM/PHOSPHORUS COMBINATION TO THE DOG’S DIET DURING THE TEETHING PERIOD. ADDING SILICA AND GLUCOSAMINE SUPPLEMENTS MAY ALSO HELP TO STRENGTHEN THE EARS.

SOME BREEDERS DESPERATE TO WIN IN THE SHOW RING OCCASIONALLY LOWER THEMSELVES TO HAVING EARS SURGICALLY ALTERED, WHICH CONSIST OF INSERTING STEEL WIRES INTO THE EARS TO MAKE THEM STAND. (OUCH) HOWEVER, THIS PROCEDURE IS NOT ONLY AGAINST AKC AND MOST OTHER CANINE ORGANIZATIONS’ RULES, BUT IS ALSO VERY PAINFUL TO THE PUPPY/DOG. IN ADDITION, ONE CANNOT CHEAT GENES AND, IF THE DOG IS BRED, THE SAME PROBLEM WILL OCCUR IN HIS.HER OFFSPRING. IN MY OPINION IT’S MUCH BETTER OFF MAKING A PUPPY WHO HAS EAR PROBLEMS A WONDERFUL AND LOVING PET THEN TO LOWER YOUR STANDARDS MAKING THE POOR DOG LIVE IN PAIN JUST TO HAVE IT IN THE SHOW RING. WHAT’S BEST FOR THE DOG SHOULD ALWAYS BE YOUR #1 PRIORITY!!